Pick du JourPosts of this category: 100

  • Posted: January 27, 2017

    Perfumed Plume Awards 2017.
    Perfumed Plume Awards 2017.
    Perfumed Plume Awards 2017.
    Mary Ellen Lapsansky and Lyn Leigh, Founders.

    Perfumed Plume Awards 2017: A call to action for creative writing!

    The Perfumed Plume Awards for Fragrance Journalism have been founded in 2015 by Mary Ellen Lapsansky and Lyn Leigh as a prestigious recognition of the best-written word and visual creativity exploring the nature, pleasure, art and artists of perfumery — or as Westly Morris, Senior Vice President Fine Fragrance at MANE and founding sponsor puts it: „The awards shine a spotlight on gifted writers whose brilliant story-telling abilities inspire the consumer to a new-found appreciation of fragrance in all its many facets.“

    The judging panel includes luminaries such as The Institut of Arts & Olfaction founder Saskia Wilson-Brown and Sniffapalooza’s Karen Adams and Karen Dubin. To submit your work to America’s most prestigious award for fragrance journalism just follow this link: The Perfumed Plume Awards.

  • Award, Perfume Plume

  • Posted: December 16, 2016

    Welcome to Kurfürstendamm, Berlin.
    Welcome to Kurfürstendamm, Berlin.
    Image: Dipytque
    Welcome to Kurfürstendamm, Berlin.
    Fabienne Maury, general manager Diptyque
    Mathias Bauch, country manager Germany.
    Opening night at Kurfürstendamm 134.

    Diptyque opens first shop in Germany.

    On the occasion of Diptyque’s first shop opening in Germany, Scentury’s Helder Suffenplan had a friendly chat with Fabienne Mauny, the brand’s general manager. An elegant Parisienne, Mauny radiates love and passion for the products she helps to develop and distribute. The shop, located on Berlin’s famous Kurfürstendamm avenue, is a treasure trove for lovers of fragrance, scented candles, and outstanding interior design items.

    Helder Suffenplan: What are the first things that come to mind when you think of Berlin?

    Fabienne Mauny: Brandenburg Gate and Checkpoint Charlie — two places that for me symbolize the city’s history. I remember very well the images from the fall of the Wall in 1989. I’ve been coming here many times since then and I always think of that moment.

    HS: Why did you choose Berlin for the first German Diptyque shop?

    FM: What is special about your country is that there are so many important and exciting cities within, and we would like to be present in many of them at some point. Mathias Bauch — our German country manager — convinced us it has to start with Berlin. The city is very important for image building in Germany and on top of this has a global awareness.

    HS: Diptyque created a candle especially for this shop. How does it smell?

    FM: It is part of a new collection of candles inspired by select capitals in the world. We are very proud to have created the first one for Berlin. Its main ingredient is lime tree, inspired by the scent of the linden trees in early summer in Berlin.

    HS: Something that strikes me about Diptyque is the love for details. No matter if you look at a flacon or a diffuser — everything is just really well done.

    FM: We inherited this level of care from the founders, Christiane Gautrot, Desmond Knox-Leet and Yves Coueslant. Each time we went to them to present new creations they would question us on every detail: how exactly was it done and why?

    HS: How will you preserve this spirit into the future, especially while the brand is expanding?

    FM: Basically by approaching challenges exactly as we have learned from the founders. They were free, curious, very refined, and had a great sense for hospitality. They spent a lot of time in the shop listening to customers, and trained us to give the customer a very sincere welcome and make them feel comfortable. They put into the brand this mix of elegance and warmth — their life, their emotions, their inspiration. We strive to continue in the same way.

    HS: This autumn, Diptyque launched a small range of cushions and bags made from printed Diptyque fabrics from 1960s. Will there be more products of that sort?

    FM: The idea behind the original shop at Boulevard Saint-Germain that opened in 1961 was to create a Bazar Chic, an eclectic and colorful collection of objects from all around the world. We have decided to reconnect to those roots with our Collection de 34. We are going to continue to explore this territory because it expresses the idea of art de vivre, something we find very specific to the brand.

    HS: For such a wide product range you need many different suppliers. How do you find them and how do you ensure they meet Diptyque’s high standard of quality?

    FM: The beauty of this is that these are real partnerships. We grow together while we develop projects together. And this is true about everyone we work with: wax producers, ceramic workshops, illustrators … We try to give them the freedom to express themselves and give us the best of what they are able to do. For example, we never put the perfumers in competition: no pitches, no tests, no focus groups — or, rather, a focus group that consists of only two or three people [laughs]. But we are very demanding. I recently met the gentleman who produces caps for our flacons and he said to me: “You are a nightmare to work with but we love you!”

    HS: You have a history in the luxury industry, working for Yves Saint Laurent and other big brands. What is the main difference between working with a big company and a niche brand?

    FM: For me there are no big names and small names, but just people who are true to what they do and people who are not. I consider it an honor to work with people at such a high level of talent, vision, and passion like Pierre Bergé and Yves Saint Laurent. When you work with them you are elevated in a way. At Diptyque I found the same spirit in a totally different context. You can find exceptional talent in many different places, and it’s my privilege to help them to be even more successful.

    HS: What Diptyque fragrances are you using these days?

    FM: Prepare yourself for a long list because I love many of them. From the personal fragrances I especially like the spicy ones. I love to wear L’Eau, Diptyque’s first scent created in 1968. Another favorite is Eau Lente, a very ambery scent from the exclusive Store Collection. When it comes to candles I enjoy the entire range from florals to woods to spices — depending on the occasion. For a grey and rainy day like today I would definitely choose to burn Feu de Bois.

    HS: Thank you!

  • Berlin, Christiane Gautrot, Desmond Knox-Leet, Diptyque, Eau Lente / Diptyque, Fabienne Mauny, Linden Blossom, L’Eau / Diptyque, Paris, Pierre Bergé, Yves Coueslant, Yves Saint Laurent

  • Posted: November 22, 2016


    Image: 20first.

    Perfume quote by perfumer Ramón Monegal.

  • Barcelona, Perfume Quote, Ramón Monegal, Ramón Monegal

  • Posted: November 13, 2016

    Renegade #1: Bertrand Duchaufour.
    Renegade #1: Bertrand Duchaufour.
    Image: Project Renegade
    Renegade #1: Bertrand Duchaufour.
    Renegade #2: Geza Schön.
    The Project Renegade fragrance line.
    Renegade #3: Mark Buxton.

    All for one and one for all!

    It may look like Quentin Tarantino’s latest blockbuster — but it’s perfume! Perfume heroes Geza Schön, Mark Buxton, and Bertrand Duchaufour teamed up to infuse the world of fragrance with danger and excitement. “Project Renegade is all about letting fantasy run wild and not taking yourself too seriously,” Geza explains of the collaboration’s philosophy. Mark adds: “To me most scents are not daring enough and we want to be the ones who change that.” To Bertrand the goal of Project Renegade is to be nothing less than groundbreaking. The threesome has playfully unleashed their creativity in three perfumes that we dare you to check out. The elaborate packaging design is a bold mixture of eccentric typography and psychedelic patterns — not least the bullet holes in the box. The bottles bear little metal vignettes on their front depicting the avatars of the three renegades.

    The scents are now available in select perfume stores. To learn more about the three scents go to the distributor’s website at www.willbeabrand.com.

  • Bertrand Duchaufour, Bertrand Duchaufour / Project Renegade, Geza Schön, Geza Schön / Project Renegade, Mark Buxton, Mark Buxton / Project Renegade, Project Renegade

  • Posted: October 28, 2016

    The three new colognes.
    The three new colognes.
    Image: Astier de Villatte
    The three new colognes.
    The founders and SCENTURY’s Helder Suffenplan.
    Grand Chalet by Françoise Caron.
    Elixir du Docteur Flair by Françoise Caron.
    Splash Orange Amère by Christophe Raynaud.

    Astier de Villatte launches 3 new colognes.

    To mark the 10th anniversary of their brand, Ivan Pericoli and Benoît Astier de Villatte traveled to Berlin to introduce three new Eau de Colognes to the German perfume crowd at the beautiful MDC store in Prenzlauer Berg. SCENTURY seized the moment to chat with the Parisian perfume duo about fragrance and the concepts behind their new scents in particular.

    Astier de Villatte was founded in 1996 when Ivan and Benoît launched their furniture and white ceramics brand. To this day they are the only ceramic makers in Paris. Dinnerware, vases, and candleholders are produced in their studio on Boulevard Masséna and shipped all over the world. In 2000, they opened their boutique at 173 Rue Saint Honoré, near the Louvre, and in 2008 they teamed up with perfumer Françoise Caron to launch a series of Eau de Colognes. The newly launched trio has been designed by Françoise Caron (Grand Chalet, Elixir du Doctor Flair) and Christophe Raynaud (Splash Orange Amère).

    SCENTURY: Why do you focus on cologne, not eau de perfume or eau de toilette?

    Ivan Pericoli: Our two families always used a lot of cologne, so that is probably the formulation we’ve always been used to. We like the idea of offering something refreshing that gives you a kickstart into the day but isn’t projecting too much. Plus our colognes are not only colognes in terms of concentration, but also in terms of the ingredients we use. All seven scents from the line have a citrusy base. Obviously each takes a different direction from there and is really unique.

    SCENTURY: Did you have any contacts in the perfume industry when you started the fragrance line in 2008, or was that world uncharted territory for you?

    Ivan Pericoli: We had no network in the perfume industry whatsoever. Our first attempts to work with perfumers didn’t work out that well, we didn’t really click and we weren’t satisfied with the results. We were almost losing faith in the project until we accidentally met Françoise Caron — sparks flew immediately.

    SCENTURY: How exactly does the creative process work?

    Benoît Astier de Villatte: We usually come to Françoise with very simple little stories or with things that we love: an ingredient, an image … she likes that approach because usually the industry is very complicated. Usually she’s spot on with one of her first tries.

    SCENTURY: Splash, the first of the three new scents, seems to be an amazing summer fragrance. Is that what you had in mind?

    Ivan Pericoli: This one is the first from our line created by Christophe Raynaud and there’s a funny story behind it: when we briefed him he came up with a number of scents. We somehow liked all of them but we didn’t quite feel like we were there yet when Christophe said, “Look, here’s one I created for myself and have been wearing for years now, it might actually fit the brief.” And that was it, we simply loved it!

    SCENTURY: Elixir du Docteur Flair, the second one, features many woody and spicy ingredients whereas Grand Chalet is on the lighter and more floral side with its most prominent ingredient being lime blossom. Did you know the lime tree is the signature tree of Berlin?

    Ivan Pericoli: We didn’t, but someone just told us when we arrived. I find that amazing.

    SCENTURY: You should come back in early summer and take a stroll Unter den Linden then to enjoy the intoxicating scent.

    Ivan Pericoli: We’ll definitely do that!

    SCENTURY: Thank you!

  • Astier de Villatte, Berlin, Christophe Paynaud, Elixir du Docteur Flair / Astier de Villatte, Françoise Caron, Grand Chalet / Astier de Villatte, Lime Blossom, Orange, Paris, Splash Orange Amère / Astier de Villatte

  • Posted: August 01, 2016


    Image: 20first.

    Perfume quote by Robert Ricci, son of Nina Ricci

  • Fashion, Nina Ricci, Perfume Quote, Robert Ricci

  • Posted: July 18, 2016

    Salt on our skin!
    Salt on our skin!
    Image: 20first.
    Salt on our skin!

    Sea + Sky + Skin = Summer!

    This beauty comes right in time for your sailing trip to Greece: The citrus aromatic concoction captures a mediterranean sea breeze and marine notes plus the smell of sun kissed skin (saffron, ambroxan and amber). The description boasts „sand notes“ as well — we detected the heavenly smell of salt water evaporating from the dry woods on the deck of a sailing yacht after a risky turning manoeuvre. Packing our duffle backs right now — all that’s missing is the yacht …

  • Amber, Ambroxan, Bergamot, Carner Barcelona, Cedarwood, Costarela / Carter Barcelona, Saffron, Salt, Sand Notes, Summer

  • Posted: June 15, 2016

    German Nivea vintage ad, 1950s.
    German Nivea vintage ad, 1950s.
    Via: www.pinterest.com.
    German Nivea vintage ad, 1950s.
    German Nivea vintage ad, 1954.
    American Nivea vintage ad, 1940s.

    Olfactive summer memories!

    The scent of sun tan lotions triggers fond memories of perfect summer vacations. Which brand was your family’s choice back then?

  • Nivea, Summer, Vintage Ad

  • Posted: June 10, 2016


    Image: 20first.

    Perfume quote by Emanuele Ungaro, fashion designer.

  • Emanuele Ungaro, Fashion, Fashion Designer, Perfume Quote

  • Posted: April 20, 2016

    Cérine Vasseur, co-founder of Evody.
    Cérine Vasseur, co-founder of Evody.
    Photo: www.evodyparfums.com
    Cérine Vasseur, co-founder of Evody.
    Ritual burning of Kyphi in ancient Egypt.
    Onde 7 from the Collection d’Ailleurs.
    Noir d’Orient, Blanc de Sienne by Evody.
    Regine Droin & Cérine Vasseur, founders of Evody.

    With our Collection d’Ailleurs we allow ourselves more freedom.

    During this year’s Esxence we sat with Cérine Vasseur — one half the founding duo of Paris-based perfume house Evody. In 2008 Cérine and her mother, Régine Droin, launched their own perfume line, drawing on much experience from their eponymous store for selected niche fragrances. In Milan, the two of them presented their latest line extension, Collection d’Ailleur, comprising five creations that celebrate the diversity of cultures and nature around the globe. Find out more about the history of Evody and the story behind their brand. www.evodyparfums.com

    Helder Suffenplan: Your family has a history in fragrance — tell us more about this.

    Cérine Vasseur: My mother had a perfumery when I was about 5 years old. As a child, I was her best salesman! I remember I sold Tartine & Chocolat — a fragrance for children that I loved — to all the young moms. I also used to play “merchant of perfumes” instead of playing with dolls, which was not really my thing.

    HS: You took the saying “early practice makes perfect” to heart, obviously. Has it always been a decided matter that you would enter into the fragrance business?

    CV: First, I did not want to do the same job as my mother! I wanted a career in fashion. However, I’ve always loved fragrances. I liked the idea of having my own special scent. The perfumes I wore were always quite different from the ones my friends had. One day when I was on a shopping spree with my mom, the idea to create the perfumery of our dreams was born. We already had in mind the brands that we liked but were really difficult to find. Honestly, I had more the idea of having fun with my mother than to start a business.

    HS: But you were serious enough to transform this idea into action.

    CV: Yes, we opened the shop Evody in 2006 and back then we were the only shop in Paris focusing on niche fragrances. Therefore, a lot of people from the perfume industry came to our shop. We became friends with a perfumer, Aglaé Nicolas, who one day proposed that we create our own fragrances. It all started as a game. We had so much pleasure creating our fragrances that we decided to launch our creations by the end of 2008. At the same time, we had two proposals from companies who wanted to buy the shop. We took it as a sign and we decided to focus on the brand.

    HS: What exactly does the brand name Evody mean and where does it come from?

    CV: The name Evody comes from a tree, the Evodia that you can see in Jardins de Bagatelle in Paris. The Evodia is also called the tree of a hundred thousand flowers, which we found very evocative. So we did some research and found out that the word Evody is etymologically closely tied to the meaning of the word perfume! Isn’t this a sign as well? I really do believe in signs!

    HS: Evody’s portfolio explores classic olfactive themes such as leather, amber, or orange blossom. Am I right in assuming you don’t see your role in perfumery as one of pushing the limits in a provocative or scandalous way?

    CV: Yes and no. Collection Première is a rather classic collection indeed. However, with Collection d’Ailleurs, which is more mature, I think we allow ourselves more freedom. These perfumes are more complex. It’s a question of inspiration; we’re not ruling anything out. If one day something really provocative or outrageous takes shape, and it remains coherent, I will not forbid myself. But you are correct in that I’d never do anything scandalous just to create a buzz; it would be vulgar. But if it’s done with sincerity it can be very attractive and beautiful.

    HS: How exactly do you and the perfumers collaborate?

    CV: We always work on several tracks with the perfumers. First comes the idea, the inspiration. It can be images, photos, reflections of a mood. Next, we describe the main notes that will build the fragrance. The perfumer comes in to optimize the fragrance: we add materials that highlight the main notes. And finally, we adjust, we balance out until the result is — in our opinion — perfect.

    HS: Do you work with different Noses for different creations? Who do you work with and how do you select them?

    CV: Initially, we worked with Nicolas Aglaé and her team at Drom: Alexandra Monet, Corinne Cachen, Philippe Romano, and Barbara Zoebelein. Then we met this charismatic duo from Flair, Anne-Sophie Behaghel and Amélie Bourgeois; during a project with them for an exhibition we discovered their talent and how much of a pleasure it is to work with them. So we decided to team up for our latest two creations: Blanc de Sienne and Onde 7, and also on the reformulations of our existing fragrances. It’s about feeling, talent, and trust.

    HS: Your latest launches from the Collection d’Ailleurs seem to be more riskseeking, in particular Onde 7 and Noir d’Orient.

    CV: Onde 7 is all about the Kyphi ritual practiced by Egyptians, the offering of incense, woods, and spices to the Gods. It’s very inspiring because this is how perfume was born: the smoke from Kyphi brought us to the expression “per fumum” and this expression brought us to the word “perfume.” Kyphi always contained honey, cinnamon, and sandalwood, so we started with these raw materials to create this fragrance. We wanted it bright but also very sensual and comforting. The notes of ginger and bergamot give it its solar side, whereas animal notes such as hyraceum and castoreum add a sensual and mesmerizing power.

    Onde 7 refers to the figure 7, which is supposed to bring luck — it’s literally a wave of luck that we wanted to bring with this perfume. Noir d’Orient is a very different story. We wanted to talk about India and its people. It’s a very complex country, full of colors and darkness at the same time. We tried to express both sides in the fragrance: incense evokes the spirituality of the people, spices bring many facets to this perfume. Plus it evolves and becomes more and more mysterious. We also added a note of amber and rum, a little wink as we discovered that the Indians were the first consumers of rum! Talking about multifaceted stories and interpreting them through raw materials is an approach that we find very exciting. This is why this collection is more complex.

    HS: In which countries is Evody distributed right now, and are you planning to enter new markets soon?

    CV: We are presently in Europe for the most part: UK, Germany, Italy, Netherlands, Belgium, Spain. Despite the crisis in Russia, we work very well with our partners there. Ukraine is also a country where the situation is very difficult but still it is a place that works very well for our brand. More recently we began to establish ourselves in the Middle East. The next step for us would be the US and Asia.

    HS: What news is to be expected from Evody in the near future? Please share some secrets with us!

    CV: I love this kind of question! Well let’s first focus on the launch of our novelty Onde 7, which is planned for September. Then I would just tell you that we already have some fragrances ready. But you’ll need a little more patience before you can discover them!

    HS: Thank you, Cérine!

  • Aglaé Nicolas, Alexandra Monet, Amber, Amélie Bourgeois, Anne-Sophie Behaghel, Barbara Zoebelein, Bergamot, Blanc de Sienne / Evody, Castoreum, Cérine Vasseur, Cinnamon, Corinne Cachen, Drom, Egypt, Esxence, Evody, Ginger, Honey, Hyraceum, Incense, Leather, Milan, Noir d’Orient / Evody, Onde 7 / Evody, Paris, Philippe Romano, Régine Droin, Rum, Sandalwood, Tartine & Chocolat, Tartine & Chocolat / Tartine & Chocolat

  • Posted: April 13, 2016

    Stefania Squeglia, founder of Mendittorosa.
    Stefania Squeglia, founder of Mendittorosa.
    Photo: www.mendittorosa.com
    Stefania Squeglia, founder of Mendittorosa.
    Nettuno by Mendtittorosa.
    Planet Neptune.
    Opening title of Stromboli – Terra di Dio.
    Ingrid Bergman in Stromboli – Terra di Dio.
    Stefania Squeglia, founder of Mendittorosa.

    I want people to connect with their creative potential.

    The actual meaning of Mendittorosa, the name of the Italian niche perfume house founded in 2012, is a secret that founder Stefania Squeglia is unwilling to reveal. But there were many other secrets Stefania was happy to share during our recent conversation in Milan, by her stand at this year’s Esxence. A life-altering experience on the volcanic island of Stromboli, the importance of astrology to her work, and the concept for the label’s latest launch, Nettuno, are just some of the topics we touched on. www.mendittorosa.com

    Helder Suffenplan: You once said that Mendittorosa isn’t niche, but ultra niche. What exactly did you mean by that?

    Stefania Squeglia: We are too artistic and too artisanal to be defined by the word niche. Definitions of that kind are, after all, just labels — and I’m no fan of labels, because I find them very limiting. So, in reference to Mendittorosa, I prefer the term “artistic perfumery.”

    HS: When and how did you start your brand?

    SS: I started four years ago — but not directly with the brand. I actually began by changing my life. One day, I travelled to the south Italian island of Stromboli …

    HS: Where Rossellini shot his eponymous movie with Ingrid Bergman?

    SS: That same island exactly. It has an active volcano, a friendly volcano one might say, since if it ever erupts, the lava flows directly into the sea and so the lives of the few hundred fishermen and their families are not affected. At the time, I was a marketing manager in the media industry. I felt really exhausted and actually travelled to Stromboli to recover my health. The power of the volcano helped me find my own path again, and thereupon change my life. I had always felt the urge to express myself artistically and evidently the time had come to focus on that entirely.

    HS: How did you come to choose fragrance as a way to express yourself?

    SS: Perfume is a channel for our souls, a means both to reach inside our private selves and to connect with our higher selves, which is to say, with a shared awareness of our cosmic interconnectedness. It also allows me to involve myself in very different tasks: I can first develop a philosophical concept for every scent and then go on to work on the packaging. After all, everything has not only an inside but also an outside. We have not only a soul but a body too, and we have to take care of both. So the product and the packaging are equally important. This is what makes every creation, every perfume in my line an artistic entity in its own right.

    HS: You also collaborate with other creative minds to realize these projects. You work with perfumers, the artisans that make the flacons …

    SS: I call this “my beautiful net of magic.” In the beginning I made many mistakes but then eventually gathered a group of angels around me. For instance, I found a Tuscan sculptor to do the flacons for Le Mat and Sogno Reale; I met a beautiful woman specialized in the manufacture of mirrors, with whom I worked on Nettuno; and then I had the great good fortune to run into those amazing perfumers from Flair Paris, Anne-Sophie Behaghel and Amélie Bourgeois.

    HS: A duo now engaged in a whole string of fascinating projects. Do you work with them on all of your fragrances?

    SS: To date I did every single launch with them, but right now I’m experimenting with a magical guy from Edinburgh on the prep for my upcoming project. Not that I can tell you too much about that. For the moment, it’s still under wraps.

    HS: I noticed that the names of all your fragrances are strongly symbolic.

    SS: That’s right. All the names have a deeper meaning for me. For example there’s Alfa, named after the first letter of the alphabet, the symbol for the beginning of all things. And Omega, named after the symbol for the end of all things. Id is named after the local fishermen’s nickname for Stromboli. Making that fragrance was a way for me to say “Thank you, Stromboli, for saving my life!”

    HS: Do you go back to Stromboli now and then?

    SS: Oh yes, at least once a year.

    HS: It’s wonderful to have a place to return to whenever you need to recharge and reconnect.

    SS: Absolutely. And my wish both for you and for myself is that we will always find that place inside ourselves. But it’s easier said than done. So we’re lucky to have potent, regenerative places like Stromboli at hand.

    HS: Please tell me about your new launch Nettuno.

    SS: Nettuno is my personal take on contemporary astrology, just as Le Mat is linked to tarot cards and Sogno Reale to the unconscious as defined by C.G. Jung. I worked on Nettuno with one of Italy’s most famous astrologists, Marco Pesatori, after being deeply inspired by a beautiful poem he wrote about Neptune. The planet Neptune symbolizes our artistic sensibilities. With this perfume, I hoped to recall to mind that there’s an artist inside each one of us. I want people to connect with their own creative potential. Neptune’s element is mercury — quicksilver —, which is why we use mirrored glass for the flacon. Mirrors, as you know, reflect whatever already exists, hence also that inside us which has yet to come to light.

    HS: I’m reminded of Joseph Beuys, who once said “Every human being is an artist.” He didn’t mean to imply that all people are good painters or novelists, but rather that we are the authors of our own lives: each our own personal author-ity, so to speak. He also coined the term “social sculpture.” He regarded society as the outcome of a creative process, one that we must work on continually, with great care and conscious intent. We are all invited to be co-creators of this ever-shifting sculpture.

    SS: What a beautiful image! I like that! And life is also a myth. Everything in life is a symbol and we need to attune our sensibilities to reading those signs.

    HS: So, to return to Nettuno, what was the concept for this creation?

    SS: The brief included “cosmic dust” and also “planetary mirror.”

    HS: There’s a distinct metallic note in there, as well as a leathery accord, and something bright and sparkling.

    SS: The metallic “mirror” smell comes from the complex rose accord created by Amélie Bourgeois. She translated that really beautifully. The sparkle you mention comes from the pink pepper. And there’s another something special in there, too: blue ginger. Which, since the color blue is attributed to Neptune, makes a perfect match.

    HS: Yet the scent isn’t cold, despite its metallic notes.

    SS: That’s true. But then, it’s a vision not of outer space but of cosmic flow!

    HS: Thank you, Stefania!

  • Alfa / Mendittorosa, Amélie Bourgeois, Anne-Sophie Behaghel, Blue Ginger, Esxence, Id / Mendittorosa, Ingrid Bergman, Joseph Beuys, Le Mat / Mendittorosa, Leather, Mendittorosa, Milan, Neptune, Nettuno / Mendittorosa, Omega / Mendittorosa, Pink Pepper, Roberto Rossellini, Rose, Sogno Reale / Mendittorosa, Stefania Squeglia, Stromboli

  • Posted: April 07, 2016

    Danielle Ryan, founder of ROADS.
    Danielle Ryan, founder of ROADS.
    Photo: www.roads.co
    Danielle Ryan, founder of ROADS.
    Do the Pantsula.
    I am Dance by ROADS.
    Danielle Ryan, founder of ROADS.
    Danielle Ryan, founder of ROADS.

    Ever-changing landscapes.

    During the UNSCENT event held in parallel to the 2016 Esxence fair in Milan, we met with Danielle Ryan, the founder of ROADS, a Dublin-based contemporary lifestyle brand comprising three companies: ROADS Fragrances, ROADS Publishing and ROADS Entertainment. Born in Ireland to a Sri Lankan-German mother and an Irish father, Danielle spent her childhood in Sri Lanka, Nigeria, Dublin, and London. She comes from a strong entrepreneurial background — her family founded the airline Ryanair. After graduating from the Royal Academy of Dramatic Art in London, Danielle came into contact with perfumers during a theatrical project — an experience that ultimately led her to make fragrances an integral part of her life. Find out more about Danielle’s creative process and her latest line of four fragrances dedicated to Africa. www.roads.co

    Helder Suffenplan: Your lifestyle brand ROADS focuses on three areas: fragrances, books, and movies. Did you have trouble making up your mind about which of these interests you most?

    Danielle Ryan: Life is short, as we all know, and I love all three of them. But the truth is I started with films and books, which both mean a lot to me, and the fragrance thing was sort of an accident — a happy accident.

    HS: What happened?

    DR: I was setting up a theater academy in Dublin and we’d been playing with the idea of using fragrance in the auditorium. Just imagine if, during scenes set in a forest, you could actually smell the forest. It would make things so much more emotional. That led to discussions with perfumers. In the beginning, we were talking about very literal scents: the smell of cooking, the smells in the street, or whatever. Then it developed into a different conversation and we really started playing around. In the first year I think we made, like, 150 fragrances.

    HS: How exactly do you collaborate with the perfumers?

    DR: I’m not a perfumer myself, but I can work with them, just as I can work with an architect. I say: This is what I want, this is what the fragrance should include, and I expect you to have the technical skills to be able to plan and execute it for me. There’s a different story behind each of the fragrances. Hamattan, for example, is based on a trip across the Sahara while Bitter End is based on Ireland …

    HS: Do you have to actually visit these places to find inspiration for the scents?

    DR: No, because scent can be really abstract and it’s always very subjective. I believe that together with the perfumers I could create a fragrance based quite literally on anything. I usually begin by writing down as many characteristics as possible. For example, if I were to do a fragrance based on your personality, I would list your every characteristic and try to be as inclusive as possible. And in order to explain what kind of a fragrance I wanted, I’d add some characteristics myself. For example, I might say: Make it subtle. All this goes into my brief for the perfumer. That’s the creative process that has developed over time. That’s how we start. There’s always an open discussion with the perfumer about ingredients and of course he always brings technical insight to the table. He might say: We can’t use too much of this because it might kill the horse.

    HS: Your latest line is a tribute to Africa. It comprises four fragrances, one of which, Past | Presence, was nominated just today — here at the Esxence 2016 in Milan — for an Arts & Olfaction Award. Congratulations! What inspired this new departure?

    DR: The whole project is based on contemporary Africa, and the particular fragrance nominated here is based on contemporary Nigerian writers, such as Wole Soyinka, the Nigerian playwright and poet. I actually lived in Nigeria for some time. Africa is amazing. It’s currently undergoing a huge resurgence of creativity: photographers, directors, new writing, and fashion too. Africa is such a multifaceted concept. We’re talking about a vast continent. You can’t generalize what Africa is.

    HS: I guess the fact that we Europeans usually refer to Africa as a single entity says a lot about how we think about the whole continent. It’s a part of the world that our generation is only just starting to discover.

    DR: Exactly. That’s why the four fragrances are quite specifically about specific topics. I wanted them to be very contemporary and I also had to pull the line away from anything too overtly political, because that’s not where I wanted to go with it. Another fragrance from the same line, I Am Dance, is based on a dance called Pantsula, which began in the 80s in the townships of South Africa as a expression against apartheid: a pretty colorful and cool dance that has since become quite a big phenomenon. Beyoncé used it in one of her videos. So together with the perfumer we used that dance as a starting point for the perfume, and we also used ingredients from South Africa. The process for the Africa range got quite academic, and I adored that, because I really like doing research. I spent six months looking for the topics that I wanted to use. Afropolis is based on the urban landscapes of the mega-cities, and the new trends emerging there: the design boom, the art boom, the music … Big Sky is a tribute to the vast African skies and the ever-changing landscapes beneath them.

    HS: Have you already taken these fragrances to Africa?

    DR: Yes, we have and they’ve proved very popular, doubtless because we used ingredients from there but probably also because we managed to catch the spirit of things. You can’t make things too literal. These fragrances are designed to work in Germany, New York, or anywhere else. If someone doesn’t care about the context and just likes the fragrance, that’s okay with me. The scents should be able to maintain the integrity of what they started with but at the same time be translatable for everyone. And I guess it’s quite hard to strike that balance.

    HS: What other projects is ROADS looking to realize?

    DR: There are some exciting things in the fragrance area in the pipeline for September. And we’re presently expanding our global distribution, growing into new territories. At the same time, our ventures in film and publishing are fast evolving — I still feel I need to get used to their size and pace. Launching three companies simultaneously is quite a challenge.

    HS: Thank you!

  • Africa, Afropolis / ROADS, Big Sky / ROADS, Bitter End / Roads, Danielle Ryan, Esxence, Harmattan / ROADS, I am Dance / ROADS, Milan, Past | Presence / ROADS, Roads, Wole Soyinka

  • Posted: April 05, 2016

    Silvana Casoli.
    Silvana Casoli.
    Via: www.elle.it
    Silvana Casoli.
    Santiago di Compostela.
    The scent of (his) Holiness.
    Shades of scent: Il Profvmo.

    Chocolate and snow.

    In 2003, Silvana Casoli launched her own fragrance label, Il Profvmo. Based in Canossa, a small city in Emilia Romana, Silvana draws her inspiration from nature and history as well as from her frequent travels. A trained natural scientist, she developed the innovative Osmo technique: an osmotic process by which scent molecules form a chemical bond with the human epidermis and are gradually released over the next 24 hours. Another specialty is that Il Profvmo encourages users to personally mix and match fragrances from its line to create special customized scents. We met with Silvana Casoli to learn more about her sources of inspirations and why such diverse celebrities as Madonna and the former pope Benedict XVI are enamored of her perfume creations. At this years Esxence fair, Il Profvmo introduced their latest launch, Caramella d’Amore. www.ilprofvmo.com

    Helder Suffenplan: When was the last time an odor triggered your memory and sent you back to a different place and time in your life?

    Silvana Casoli: That’s a common experience for me, especially when the seasons change. The last time I experienced that sensation was during the first snowfall in my town, Canossa, in Reggio Emilia, when the four hills were capped with snow. I saw them from my studio and was transported into a fairytale. Snow is one of my greatest sources of creative inspiration. It embodies a peace and purity that brings me back to the bliss of childhood games. The ground was covered with snow the day I was born, so snow is a regular phenomenon on my birthday.

    HS: You seem to have vivid recollections of your childhood. What is the earliest olfactive memory you can think of?

    SC: Chocolate, as a reward for being a “good girl.” And also – I’m repeating myself – snow, with its airy and iodine-like aromas. I smell snow at the seashore, and I smell the tang of the sea on snow.

    HS: Before founding Il Profvmo you studied science at the University of Urbino. What made you decide to start your own perfume label and how did you acquire the skills?

    SC: I didn’t decide; it’s nature that decided for me. You can’t become a nose; you are born a Nose. Some people are trained to smell odors but I believe this is different from being a Nose. Since I was young, I have had this ability to smell, beyond what other people have. I studied natural sciences at university knowing I was a Nose. I had my “coming out” when I created Chocolat. It took me years of research and all of my knowledge. My creations are always underpinned by the awareness of the ingredients and an artistic approach. My studies in natural sciences are also useful for perfume-making. Perfumes are my life – when I leave this earth, I will for sure become a perfume cloud!

    HS: Many people refer to Il Profvmo as an all-natural fragrance brand. Are they right?

    SC: The majority of ingredients are natural, but not all of them. I believe that the synthetic components in a perfume are equally important in releasing the scent. The difference to natural essences is that they offer less synergy in terms of resilience and release on the skin.

    HS: Another signature of Il Profvmo is the so-called Osmo concept. What is technically different about Il Profvmo scents in comparison to conventional fragrances?

    SC: There’s nothing like perfume to convey intense messages without using words. Starting from this conviction, I cultivated the idea of harnessing osmosis as a form of expression. Osmosis is the phenomenon by which the skin absorbs a perfume, “stores” it, and very slowly releases its fragrance. An Osmo perfume is released together with the skin’s natural scent, producing a unique bouquet. Our Osmo scents have an unusually high degree of natural essences, so there’s a deeper penetration into the skin because of their molecular structure. The process of cold maceration creates this structure, and at the same time ensures that the full spectrum of an individual aroma is preserved.

    HS: You encourage users to combine the scents from the Osmo Line to create new formulas according to their personal likings. How do you make sure the results are always satisfactory?

    SC: Don’t be afraid — think limitless! I believe that each new layer excites the senses and generates new emotions. Any combination is possible in the world of perfumes, just as in the worlds of art, music, or cuisine. If a composition does not work out, it becomes a technical detail to be chalked up to experience.

    HS: You created 3 fragrances for the Catholic Church, one of them for Pope Benedict XVI. How did this unlikely collaboration come about? Did you receive any feedback from the Pope?

    SC: This work is very personal, not commercial but spiritual, and the fragrances are not available to the public. His Holiness the Pope came from Santiago di Compostella. During his pilgrimage, he smelled my creations dedicated to Acqua della Fede and Acqua della Speranza. He loved the perfumes and asked me to recreate the scent of their gardens so that he could always smell them in his later years. It has been a great honor for me, and I worked on this perfume with Bach flowers, which make the work hugely valuable.

    HS: Odors like incense and oud have been linked to religious rites for thousands of years. Did this fact play any role in the creation of your fragrances for the Catholic Church?

    SC: Generally speaking, religious institutions have always used scent for their rituals, whether you call them perfume, fragrance, or incense. In that way, yes, but the specific ingredients you mentioned did not have a particular influence in this creation.

    HS: What would a fragrance for the current Pope, Francis I, smell like? What ingredients would you recommend for his signature scent?

    SC: If I had the opportunity, I would love to create it together with His Holiness, like a duet: a drop of his essence along with a touch of my spirit. I am sure he would convey scents of life, joy, and cosmic energy.

    HS: I read you’ve also worked with Sting, Madonna, and Juan Carlos of Spain. Can you tell us about it?

    SC: My life’s work is to perfume the skin and the air. The celebrities you mention all use our brand, and they have a passionate relationship with perfumes. They are extremely discerning when it comes to selecting a scent and choosing the right person to create their fragrance.

    HS: What inspires you to create a new fragrance?

    SC: I believe my mission is to create something that doesn’t exist and to give scents to certain places that don’t have them. If I were to visit a melancholic city, my first thought would be to create a joyful perfume! And I love the wind. In nature, wind is the element that carries faraway messages and is present every time an inspiration opens up to creation. I create fragrances and vibrating perfumes and make them alive. I imagine these fragrances stimulate olfactory communication and target a dynamic and determined personality. When designing fragrances I think of free and individual true spirits.

    HS: For you personally, what is the most fascinating thing about creating fragrance?

    SC: The perfumes I create are not simply fragrances; I put my own personality in every bottle. Intense or urbane, mischievous or elusive, they all contain a piece of my soul. That’s why I refer to them as my “children.”

    HS: Thank you!

  • Canossa, Caramella d’Amore / Il Profvmo, Chocolat / Il Profvmo, Esxence, Il Profvmo, Madonna, Milan, Pope Benedict XVI, Pope Francis I, Silvana Casoli, Snow, Sting

  • Posted: March 26, 2016


    Image: 20first.

    Swosh!

  • Perfume GIF

  • Posted: March 23, 2016


    Image: 20first.

    Perfume quote by Sonia Rykiel, fashion designer.

  • Fashion, Fashion Designer, Perfume Quote, Sonia Rykiel

  • Posted: February 11, 2016

    Alexander Vreeland.
    Alexander Vreeland.
    Via: www.fashionweekdaily.com
    Alexander Vreeland.
    Smashingly brillant!
    Alexander with grandmother Diana and father Fredrick.
    Diana Vreeland for Interview magazine, 1980.
    Diana Vreeland, 1977.

    „Our story is a woman’s story!“

    I recently sat down with Alexander Vreeland, grandson of Diana Vreeland (1903 – 1989), the former editor of both Harper’s Bazaar and Vogue and the “only genius in the history of fashion magazines,” according to Richard Avedon.

    In a quiet corner of the café within Berlin’s long-established luxury department store Quartier 206, Alexander and I discussed the fragrance line he launched three years ago in tribute to his grandmother. The monikers of all eight scents are inspired by Diana’s affection for superlatives (Absolutely Vital, Simply Divine, Outrageously Vibrant …) and the bottles and packaging were created by design legend Fabien Baron, each with a magnetic cap (click!) and silk tassel.

    Helder Suffenplan: Why fragrance and not accessories or interior design? Diana Vreeland was at home in so many areas.

    Alexander Vreeland: Diana Vreeland legitimately loved fragrance. She did many things where smell was a key component. For example, when she started curating exhibitions at the Metropolitan Museum of Art she piped in fragrances to accompany the exhibition. And her home or office were always filled with a multitude of different smells.

    HS: What did her apartment smell like?

    AV: She loved Rigaud candles, potpourri, and incense sticks that she burned in a big porcelain bowl. And then she had little Teflon devices that you could put on the light bulbs and drop a little bit of perfume oil on that would evaporate through the heat. You don’t find these anymore; it’s probably flammable and dangerous. And then she had —

    HS: There was even more? She really did like fragrance!

    AV: She did! She even injected perfumes that she liked into the sofa pillows with a hypodermic needle. So there was a lot of smell! There’s a beautiful quote from her: “If someone has to sniff around to find the fragrance, it’s not enough.”

    HS: Most new labels start from scratch to build a brand story and identity. You had the name and the legacy of Diana Vreeland to build on. Did this make it easier?

    AV: Not really. In the beginning there was this leap of faith where it was unproven that a line of Diana Vreeland perfumes would work. Most people might think it was a no-brainer but it’s not. Launching a brand today in a high luxury environment is always a challenge — nobody really needs anything.

    HS: Still, the line became very successful. What’s your strategy?

    AV: Any brand has to do everything right today. But on top of that you really have to have a sense of who you are speaking to.

    HS: Who is your customer?

    AV: The customer we’re speaking to is a very sophisticated fragrance lover who is looking for interesting things that she can relate to and that is part of her story.

    HS: Women mainly?

    AV: Our story is a woman’s story and not a man’s story. Whereas a lot of brands you see today tell men’s stories: the offering, the brand filter, and the brand stories of most brands are more masculine. We’re telling a very playful, joyous, and very feminine story: no one has the colors that we have; no one uses the names that we use.

    HS: How deeply are you involved in the creation of the scents?

    AV: Very much — let me give you an example. We wanted to have an oud fragrance in the line, so perfumers kept coming to us with various offerings but none of it really was what I wanted to be doing. One day the perfumer Pascal Gaurin from IFF proposed the concept of an iris oud. And I felt that this had the ingredients that might be working. So I started working with Pascal on this formulation: “Is it too smoky; too strong; too animalic? Can we make it more feminine?” This sculpturing process took more than nine months until we were entirely happy. It is very intense.

    HS: Diana Vreeland is a patron saint to everyone who works in publishing. They keep asking themselves: “What would Diana do?” Do you ask yourself: “Would Diana wear this scent?”

    AV: Not really. What I do is try to imagine her living today, being 35 years old. Her voice tells me: “Do the best you can!” So I try and that’s a lot of pressure already.

    HS: Thank you!

  • Alexander Vreeland, Diana Vreeland Perfumes, Fabien Baron, Harper’s Bazaar, IFF, Iris, Oud, Pascal Gaurin, Vogue

  • Posted: February 10, 2016

    Force No. 5.
    Force No. 5.
    GIF: 20first
    Force No. 5.

    “These aren’t the droids you’re looking for …”

  • Chanel, Chanel No. 5 / Chanel, Space, Star Wars

  • Posted: February 04, 2016

    Berlin’s Top 5 perfume labels.
    Berlin’s Top 5 perfume labels.
    Image: 20first
    Berlin’s Top 5 perfume labels.
    Geza Schön, perfumer.
    Molecule 01 by Geza Schön.
    Marie Lefebvre, Urban Scents.
    Desert Rose by Urban Scents.
    Tanja Bochnig, April Aromatics.
    Calling all Angels by April Aromatics.
    Thorsten Biehl, Biehl.Parfumkunstwerke.
    al02 by Biehl.Parfumkunstwerke.
    Lutz Herrmann, Tamas Tagscherer with Véronique Nyberg.
    Treffpunkt 8 Uhr by Schwarzlose.

    Perfume Made in Berlin – The Capital’s 5 best labels.

    Berlin is slowly but surely becoming a top go-to fragrance hotspot. Numerous internationally successful perfumers and labels have set up base in Berlin so as to draw inspiration for their labels from the capital’s heady vibes. In collaboration with our friends from Louise & Hélène we bring to you to the most exciting five among them:

    Geza Schön: Rebel Heart.
    Legend has it that Geza Schön strode as a teenager into the HQ of perfume developers Haarman & Reimer in Holzminden, Germany, as a teenager, and calmly announced he wished to learn to make perfume. Impressed by this chutzpah, the company took the young man at his word and granted him a classic perfumer apprenticeship. Geza became one of its most successful employees and continues to be booked by major houses to this day. But he wanted more. In 2006 he founded his own label and launched Molecule 01. This consists exclusively of Iso E Super, a molecule used generally as an ancillary perfume ingredient. To sell a synthetic molecule as perfume — and boast about it, to boot — was a scandal! Even ten years down the road, some perfumers still hate Geza Schön from the bottom of their hearts for breaking a taboo like that; or perhaps they are merely jealous, given the perfume’s sensational success. Molecule 01 is a modern classic, one that I like to compare with Malevich’s “Black Square,” a monochrome canvas from 1913 that prompts indignation in many people, even today, since: “Anyone can paint a black square!” Which may be so — but only Malevich thought to do so. Fact is, Molecule 01 works — and stories are rife of the many witty or even amorous episodes in which its wearers become embroiled. For anyone not yet persuaded that Geza Schön can handle more than one ingredient with equal aplomb, Wode and Kinski hold much excitement in store.

    www.escentric.com

    Urban Scents: A Parisienne in Berlin.
    A Frenchwoman who packs up her flacons and leaves Paris for Berlin is for many people as weird a proposition as a country singer who moves from Nashville to Tokyo or a slalom ski racer who moves from Gstaad to Naples. But madam is set on adventure! Marie Le Febvre travels the globe, mostly with the joystick in hand, for she is an avid pilot. The same driving ambition also saw her through a tough chemistry degree course at the renowned ISPICA perfume school in Versailles then several years’ intensive training under rigorous master perfumers. After ten years in major perfume houses the moment came to start up her own business. In 2014, she and Alexander Urban, her Austrian husband, moved to Berlin. The duo has since set up a sort of creative hub in Schöneberg: Marie’s lab adjoins her husband’s gallery and alongside that is Alexander’s showroom for Moroccan hand-made tiles — quality and creativity being the common thread between them. Thanks to her classical training Marie has the know-how to implement her innovative ideas to perfection. Lost Paradise is an interesting reinterpretation of the classic chypre theme with osmanthus and gourmet notes. And my favorite, Desert Rose, presents the flower of flowers as it has seldom smelled before: fresh, aromatic, and very modern. For the individualist, Marie may also develop a signature scent — which demands an intensive trip to one’s inner self, possibly of several months’ duration.

    www.urbanscents.de

    April Aromatics: Award-winning harmony.
    Tanja Bochnig is living proof of the fact that study at one of the world’s few perfume schools is not the only route to a successful career in perfume. Praised to the skies by critics, adored by its numerous fans, April Aromatics has received several distinctions, inter alia the prestigious Arts and Olfaction Award, one of the rare truly independent perfume competitions. After an international modeling career and twenty years in New York Tanja is now back in her native Germany. The potential of perfume struck her while she was working as a yoga teacher; indeed, the close connection between breathing and olfaction inspired her to develop a new variety of the discipline, which she named aromayoga. Producing scent then seemed like the logical next step. April Aromatics uses natural ingredients and nothing but — a major technical and artistic challenge, but one that Tanja masters with flying colors. To anyone interested in exploring the April Aromatics range, I recommend — in keeping with our theme, of course — Unter den Linden, a delicate lime-blossom-based scent that prompts a longing for those carefree nights of summertime Berlin. Likewise not to be missed: Calling All Angels, a complex, dark frankincense fragrance with a touch of honey.

    www.aprilaromatics.com

    Biehl.Parfumkunstwerke: A scent gallery.
    The oft contested question of whether perfume is an art form is determined in part by the language in which it is put: in English the woman who decorates your fingernails is a nail artist whereas in German the benchmark lies somewhat higher. It therefore seems only reasonable for Thorsten Biehl, founder of Biehl.Parfumkunstwerke [Biehl.Perfume Artworks] to focus on specific criteria, namely premium quality, limited availability and the greatest possible personal freedom. He invites perfumers from all over the world to his “gallery,” and thereby allows them free rein. Son of the renowned perfumer Henning Biehl, Thorsten has perfume in his blood plus, in the meantime, his own twenty-year track record in the fragrance business, albeit in a conceptual and advisory rather than hands-on capacity. Not only father Henning but also, among others, Mark Buxton (Comme des Garçons, Le Labo, etc.) and Patricia Choux (Marc Jacobs, Carven, etc.) have contributed creations to his label. For starters, I recommend al02 from Arturetto Landi (oriental-spicy with plum, peach, clove, and tonka bean) or the aromatic-tangy eo02 from Egon Oelkers (grapefruit, fir, thyme, and cedar). But Thorsten Biehl never overdoes the art analogy — fortunately for us, since art often seeks to shock or to transgress aesthetic boundaries, and who on earth would want a Jonathan Meese around his neck?

    www.biehl-parfum.com

    Schwarzlose: A classic revived.
    This label is on its home ground in Berlin: the fragrance house was founded in1856 in what was then the capital of Prussia and over the following century numbered among its clients many European royals as well as Berliner it-girls of the roaring twenties. After the Second World War the brand fell into oblivion and in 1976 was finally abandoned. Then, in 2012, two perfume enthusiasts came across Schwarzlose ads and posters in an archive and decided to revive the label. Designer Lutz Herrmann was already experienced in the field, having created classic flacons in the 80s, inter alia for Davidoff and Jil Sander — the reason there’s a genuine Hermann in almost every bathroom cabinet in Germany. His companion Tamas Tagscherer is the marketing expert and responsible thus for positioning the label. Together with French perfumer Véronique Nyberg they are now working to fuse the label’s legacy with Berlin’s current image as the capital of newfangledness and recondite endeavor. The outcome is a range of exciting and intensive perfumes with names like Zeitgeist, Trance or Rausch. Especially charming: Treffpunkt 8 Uhr (Date at Eight) — the re-launch of a Schwarzlose classic that combines sensuous mango, ginger, saffron, and grapefruit to evoke the flirtatious, vivacious life of 1920s Berlin.

  • al02 / Biehl.Parfumkunstwerke, April Aromatics, Arturetto Landi, Berlin, Biehl.Parfumkunstwerke, Boudicca / Tode, Calling All Angels / April Aromatics, Carven, Comme des Garçons, Davidoff, Desert Rose / Urban Scents, Egon Oelkers, eo02 / Biehl.Parfumkunstwerke, Escentric Molecules, Geza Schön, Jil Sander, Kinski / Escentric Molecules, Le Labo, Lost Paradise / Urban Scents, Lutz Herrmann, Made in Berlin, Marc Jacobs, Marie Lefebvre, Mark Buxton, Molecule 01 / Eccentric Molecules, Patricia Choux, Rausch / Schwarzlose, Schwarzlose, Tamas Tagscherer, Tanja Bochnig, Trance / Schwarzlose, Treffpunkt 8 Uhr / Schwarzlose, Unter den Linden / April Aromatics, Urban Scents, Véronique Nyberg, Wode, Zeitgeist / Schwarzlose

  • Posted: January 18, 2016

    Zoolander No. 2.
    Zoolander No. 2.
    Photo: Columbia.
    Zoolander No. 2.
    Ben Stiller aka „Blue Steel“.
    Owen Wilson.

    Nothing attracts like the scent of number two!

    Columbia pictures released a fake fragrance ad for Zoolander No. 2. The purpose of the spoof is of course to get you excited about the Zoolander sequel coming to theaters February 12. Enjoy!

  • At the Movies, Ben Stiller, Owen Wilson

  • Posted: December 29, 2015

    Most tagged brands in 2015.
    Most tagged brands in 2015.
    © Scentury.
    Most tagged brands in 2015.
    Most tagged perfumers in 2015.
    Most tagged scents in 2015.
    Most liked features in 2015.
    Interviewee’s most favorite scents in 2015.

    Who’s best? Who’s most?

    We pushed some buttons to bring to you the most insightful and astonishing facts from our data base and here it is: The Scentury Scentistics 2015. Enjoy!

  • 1872 / Clive Christian, 1996 Inez & Vinoodh / Byredo, 2015, 4711, 4711 Echt Kölnisch Wasser / 4711, Acqua di Parma, Acqua di Parma Colonia / Acqua di Parma, Bertrand Duchaufour, Bois d’Argent / Christian Dior, Byredo, Calvin Klein, Carlos Benaim, Chanel No. 5 / Chanel, Christian Dior, Christopher Sheldrake, Clive Christian, Comme des Garçons, Comme des Garçons 2 / Comme des Garçons, Ernest Beaux, Escentric Molecules, Estée Lauder, Francis Kurkdjian, François Demachy, Giorgio Armani, Guerlain, Habit Rouge / Guerlain, Hermès, Jil Sander, L’Air du Temps / Nina Ricci, Maison Martin Margiela, Mitsouko / Guerlain, Molecule 01 / Escentric Molecules, Nadege Le Garlantezec, Nina Ricci, Oud Wood / Tom Ford, Pierre Guillaume, Rodrigo Flores-Roux, Scentistics, Terre d’Hermès / Hermès, Tom Ford, Untitled / Maison Martin Margiela, Véronique Nyberg, Yves Saint Laurent

  • Posted: December 20, 2015


    Image: 20first.

    Perfume quote by Paloma Picasso, style icon.

  • Paloma Picasso, Perfume Quote

  • Posted: November 30, 2015

    So London!
    So London!
    Photo: Scentury.
    So London!
    Chippendale Chinoiserie.
    Designer Christopher Jenner.

    Fundamentally irregular.

    British designer Christopher Jenner brings us 24 Old Bond Street limited edition for Atkinsons, drawing style inspiration from the pinnacle of Georgian-era England. A complex Chippendale Chinoiserie metal fretwork surrounds the 100-ml aromatic cocktail of juniper and rose and black tea, refined with smoky oak-casked whisky. After using up every last drop of fragrance, a replacement glass bottle can be slipped inside the lavishly designed metallic enclosure. The item comes in a lavishly designed box with a unique serial number and magnetic lock. Christopher Jenner — in no way related to Kris or Caitlyn Jenner — calls the edition “rather unconventional and fundamentally irregular, a unique object in an exceedingly humdrum world.” Embrace the irregularity in you!

  • 2015, 24 Old Bond Street / Atkinsons, Atkinsons, Black Tea, Christopher Jenner, Juniper, London, Rose, Whisky

  • Posted: November 23, 2015

    The golden season!
    The golden season!
    Image: 20first.
    The golden season!

    25 autumn-inspired perfume names.

    “Autumn is a second spring when every leaf is a flower.” Albert Camus (1913 – 1960)

    01. Amalia Otoño by Fueguia 1833 (2012)

    02. Autumn by Ayala Moriel (2002)

    03. Autumn by Dasein (2015)

    04. Autumn by Laggridore (2012)

    05. Autumn Aura by Coeur d’Esprit (2010)

    06. Automne by Fragrifert Parfumeur (1897)

    07. Autumn Spice by Botanical Perfume Esscentual Alchemy (2010)

    08. Brume d’Automne by Guerlain (2008)

    09. Chasing Autumn by Neil Morris Fragrances (2014)

    10. Classique Autumn Winter by Jean Paul Gaultier (2006)

    11. Folies de Saisons: Delires d’Automne by Yves Rocher (1997)

    12. Folies de Saisons: L’Humeur Nomade en Automne by Yves Rocher (2000)

    13. Golden Autumn by Long Lost Perfume (1948)

    14. Golden Autumn by Prince Matchabelli (1948)

    15. La Saisons: Automne by Van Cleef & Arpels (2004)

    16. Les 4 Saisons – Automne by M. Micallef (2003)

    17. Marc Jacobs Autumn Splash Amber by Marc Jacobs (2006)

    18. Marc Jacobs Autumn Splash Ivy by Marc Jacobs (2006)

    19. Marc Jacobs Autumn Splash Violet by Marc Jacobs (2006)

    20. November by CB I Hate Perfume (2008)

    21. November No 11 by Erik Kormann (2015)

    22. October by Neil Morris (2000)

    23. October 1st 6pm Belvedere Villa Borghese – Roma by Memento Italian Olfactive Landscapes (2010)

    24. Tova Signature Autumn by Tova Beverly Hills (2009)

    25. Vanilla Autumn by CJ Scents (2008)

  • Amalia Otoño / Fueguia 1833, Automne / Fragrifert Parfumeur, Autumn, Autumn / Ayala Moriel, Autumn / Dasein, Autumn / Laggridore, Autumn Aura / Coeur d’Esprit, Autumn Spice / Botanical Perfume Esscentual Alchemy, Ayala Moriel, Botanical Perfume Esscentual Alchemy, Brume d’Automne / Guerlain, CB I Hate Perfume, Chasing Autumn / Neil Morris Fragrances, CJ Scents, Classique Autumn Winter / Jean Paul Gaultier, Coeur d’Esprit, Dasein, Folies de Saisons : L’Humeur Nomade en Automne / Yves Rocher, Folies de Saisons: Delires d’Automne / Yves Rocher, Fragrifert Parfumeur, Fueguia 1833, Golden Autumn / Long Lost Perfume, Golden Autumn / Prince Matchabelli, Guerlain, Jean Paul Gaultier, La Saisons: Automne / Van Cleef & Arpels, Laggridore, Les 4 Saisons – Automne / M. Micallef, Long Lost Perfume, M. Micallef, Marc Jacobs, Marc Jacobs Autumn Splash Amber / Marc Jacobs, Marc Jacobs Autumn Splash Ivy / Marc Jacobs, Marc Jacobs Autumn Splash Violet / Marc Jacobs, Memento Italian Olfactive Landscapes, Neil Morris Fragrances, November / CB I Hate Perfume, November No 11 / Erik Kormann, October / Neil Morris, October 1st 6pm Belvedere Villa Borghese – Roma / Memento Italian Olfactive Landscapes, Paris, Perfume Names, Prince Matchabelli, Tova Beverly Hills, Tova Signature Autumn / Tova Beverly Hills, Van Cleef & Arpels, Vanilla Autumn / CJ Scents, Yves Rocher

  • Posted: November 03, 2015

    Veruschka for My Sin.
    Veruschka for My Sin.
    Vintage ad, 1972. Foto: Frnacesco Scavullo.
    Veruschka for My Sin.
    Jennifer O’Neill for My Sin.
    Meow!
    Blame it on the cat!

    Are you a sinner?

    My Sin is a dangerously enticing concoction that was created in 1924 by a mysterious Russian emigree called Madame Zed who had already designed a number of fragrances for the house of Lanvin. But My Sin — or Mon Péché as it was originally introduced — was the first of Lanvin’s scents to become a success.

    Clearly an olfactive child of the 1920s, My Sin crisply opens with aldehydes, bergamot, lemon, clary sage and neroli; holds an intoxicating heart of jasmine, rose, clove, lily of the valley, daffodil, ylang ylang and lilac; and has an animalic base of vetiver, vanilla, musk, styrax and civet. It has been described as one of the sexiest scents in history, with almost carnal qualities.

    During the 1950s and 60s, Lanvin ran massive ad campaigns in the US, both in television and print. For My Sin the company managed to engage two of the most glamorous women of the time: model-turned-actress Jennifer O’Neill and THE super model per se, German countess Vera von Lehndorff — better known as Veruschka — who later became an acclaimed artist. The print ads took the provocative name of the perfume one step further claiming: “Veruschka / Jennifer is a sinner.”

    My Sin was discontinued in 1988 but has been recently resurrected by the New York-based company Long Lost Perfume, whose mission is to save iconic perfume classics from oblivion.

  • 1924, Arpège / Lanvin, Bergamot, Civet, Clary Sage, Clove, Daffodil, Jasmine, Jennifer O’Neill, Lanvin, Lemon, Lilac, Lily of the Valley, Madame Zed, Mon Péché / Lanvin, Musk, My Sin / Lanvin, Neroli, Rose, Styrax, Vanilla, Vera von Lehndorff, Veruschka, Vetiver, Ylang Ylang

  • Posted: October 14, 2015


    Image: 20first.

    Perfume quote by Yves Saint Laurent, fashion hero.

  • Perfume Quote, Yves Saint Laurent

  • Posted: September 28, 2015

    What would Yves do?
    What would Yves do?
    Vintage ad, 1960s.
    What would Yves do?
    With and without the invisible dress.
    Toute en ligne …
    Made, sealed and packed in France.
    Elaine Irwin for Yves Saint Laurent.

    The invisible dress.

    You may call this fragrance a paradox, even an oxymoron or a contradiction in terms: Y is a bright, blitheful chypre. Whereas other classic chypres like Chanel No. 19 (1970), Cabochard by Grès (1959), and certainly Coty’s eponymous Chypre (1971) are more on the bon chic bon genre side, refined and melancholic (think Ava Gardner or Lauren Bacall), this one’s clearly sparkling and self-confident, a frosty blonde Grace Kelly type. The scent was created in 1964 by none other than Jean Amic, who delivered another YSL classic in 1977, Opium. Starring in a print campaign for the launch of the fragrance, Yves Saint Laurent himself advertised Y as “the invisible dress.” Take a tour through the best ads for this perfume icon across the last five decades!

  • 1964, Ava Gardner, Chanel, Chanel No. 19 / Chanel, Chypre / Coty, Coty, Elaine Irwin, Grace Kelly, Grès, Jean Amic, Lauren Bacall, Opium / Yves Saint Laurent, Y / Yves Saint Laurent, Yves Saint Laurent

  • Posted: September 09, 2015

    Greeeeen: Jade Dragon by Shanghai Tang.
    Greeeeen: Jade Dragon by Shanghai Tang.
    Perfumer: Carlos Benaim.
    Greeeeen: Jade Dragon by Shanghai Tang.

    For all dragon hunters out there.

    Chinese luxury label Shangai Tang’s perfume line is finally coming to Europe. The range of five female and three male scents has been created by no one less but master perfumer Carlos Benaim (Eternity by Calvin Klein, Polo for Men by Ralph Lauren, Flower Bomb by Viktor & Rolf). The collection was created as a fragrant journey from Europe to China and it was named after the 4000 miles long historic Silk Road. The symbol featured on top of the bottle is SHÒU, meaning „longevity“ in Chinese. Longevity is considered one of five blessings, along with wealth, health, love and virtues. Surely can all use some of this …

    We picked Jade Dragon, a fresh, light, invigorating concoction with bergamot, green tea and vetiver as main ingredients. Carlos Benaim brings a distinctly Asian touch to this classic combo. The transparent dry softness of Jade Dragon is in line with the Chinese taste for lighter skin scents but might also be a perfect companion for 2015’s last heatwave.

  • 2014, Bergamot, Calvin Klein, Carlos Benaim, China, Eternity / Calvin Klein, Flower Bomb / Viktor & Rolf, Green Tea, Jade Dragon / Shanghai Tang, Polo for Men / Ralph Lauren, Ralph Lauren, Shanghai Tang, Vetiver, Viktor & Rolf

  • Posted: August 26, 2015

    Into the sunset: Old Spice.
    Into the sunset: Old Spice.
    Vintage ad, 1980s.
    Into the sunset: Old Spice.

    Enjoy summer while it lasts.

    Days are getting shorter — make sure you collect as much golden sunlight as possible for those grey autumn days ahead.

    This 1980s ad for Old Spice deodorant gets the mood of a late August afternoon light just right. One of the classic men’s fragrances Old Spice has been launched in 1937 by Shulton and is owned today by Procter & Gamble. This smooth and warm concoction of citrus, aldehydes, carnation and spices with a hint of tobacco and fruits has been the blue print for countless men’s fragrances for the last 80 years. The nose behind it has been Albert Hauck.

  • Albert Hauck, Carnation, Citrus Notes, Old Spice / Procter & Gamble, Procter & Gamble, Shulton, Spices, Summer, Tobacco, Vintage Ad

  • Posted: June 19, 2015


    Image: 20first.

    Perfume quote by Lexa Doig, Canadian actress.

  • Lexa Doig, Perfume Quote

  • Posted: June 10, 2015

    Stefanie Hanssen, founder Frau Tonis Parfum.
    Stefanie Hanssen, founder Frau Tonis Parfum.
    Foto: Frau Tonis Parfum.
    Stefanie Hanssen, founder Frau Tonis Parfum.
    The KaDeWe selection.
    Mémoire de Pétrole by Volkswagen.

    Frau Tonis Parfum founder Stefanie Hanssen about the olfactive DNA of Munich, Hamburg & Berlin.

    Scentury: How did the idea of developing a perfume for each of the KaDeWe Group’s three premium department stores in Hamburg, Munich and Berlin come about?

    Stefanie Hanssen: The KaDeWe Group very much liked our philosophy: “Scent As Inspiration.” A selection of our scents have been available at the Berlin KaDeWe store since 2014 and since the policymakers there found the chemistry with us very good, they asked us to develop three exclusive scents on their behalf — and we were of course delighted to do so.

    Scentury: Did your image of each of these cities play a decisive role or were the qualities and character of the respective stores — their architecture, target groups, range of wares and the like — equally important?

    SH: A city is always more than just its architecture, landscape and population. One must also consider, what is the spirit of the place, and the attitude to life there. How do people relate to each other? We wanted to capture the ambience of each of the three cities in olfactory terms. If, in our opinion, Munich is a “baroque, opulent and florid” city then the bouquet we create must reflect that. Munich glows! It smells of bergamot, white tea, fresh coriander, amber and musk. We experience Berlin, on the other hand, as creative, lively and somewhat erratic. And this translates for us into: bergamot mingled with lemon, water lily petals, aromatic cedar and traces of cardamon. Hamburg by contrast is brisk, cool and elegant and calls thus for maritime notes, such as spicy mint, fine sandalwood and iris blossoms.

    Scentury: This is one of several cooperations to date between Frau Tonis Parfum and corporate clients — the most spectacular of which was probably the scent Mémoire de Pétrole for Volkswagen. What was the essence of that?

    SH: Volkswagen had planned to add an olfactory dimension to its launch of the E-Golf model — namely, with a scent that would make it easier to bid farewell to the gas station forever. Which is the reason for the name Mémoire de Pétrole — a mere hint of gas.

    Scentury: Was it difficult to convince Volkswagen that your concept was sound?

    SH: Oh, things happened the other way around entirely. Volkswagen approached Frau Tonis Parfum with this concept and so it was we who had to be convinced! And to create a perfume that smells at first peak of gas and then of green grass and flowers is a Herculean task! We worked on the formula for eight months before unveiling Mémoire de Pétrole.

    Scentury: So how should a perfume for an electric car smell?

    SH: I personally would tend to develop a scent with a very natural feel to it, one that smelled of fresh grass, clover, dew and moss. I would perhaps take nature as my muse then translate that into a metaphor for an electric car.

    Scentury: You originally worked in advertising and have been directing your own agency in Berlin for many years. What made you decide to found your own perfume label?

    SH: In 2009 I was in search of a certain scent yet one that I was able to describe only by wracking my olfactory memory, so to speak. Unfortunately, no one at all in the major perfume stores listened to me and in fact did nothing but offer me the current highlights. True, I am self-taught when it comes to the perfume business, but I have a pronounced passion for scent. And it was this, ultimately, which pushed me to take the risk of founding a perfumery of my own, one that in terms of its look and its content differs to the max from the usual market players. Elegant, transparent and purist. A limited range yet of an exceptional quality.

    Scentury: The Frau Tonis Parfum scents are designed to be combined at will by clients. But, since not all of us are born perfume experts, how can you be sure the results will not get totally out of hand?

    SH: It is not our clients who combine these perfumes but our own experts. They know exactly which scents can be combined and in which proportions. To buy a customized perfume from Frau Tonis Parfum is to embark on a voyage with one of our experts into the vast realm of scent. Our range comprises thirty-six eau de parfums from four scent families. The goal is to create a scent that perfectly suits the person, that accentuates his or her character, and that neither hides nor swamps anything. We already have more than three thousand clients on our books, each of whom has had made a unique and customized perfume. And it is clear to us that this trend is definitely on the rise!

    Scentury: Thank you!

  • 030 Berlin / Frau Tonis Parfum, 040 Hamburg / Frau Tonis Parfum, 089 München / Frau Tonis Parfum, Amber, Bergamot, Berlin, Cardamon, Cedar, Coriander, Frau Tonis Parfum, Hamburg, Iris, KaDeWe, Lemon, Mémoire de Pétrole / Volkswagen, Mint, Munich, Musk, Sandalwood, Stefanie Janssen, Volkswagen, Water Lily, White Tea

  • Posted: May 28, 2015

    „A buck each“: Black Label by Yardley.
    „A buck each“: Black Label by Yardley.
    Vintage ad, 1965. Via: www.vinmag.com
    „A buck each“: Black Label by Yardley.
    The scent of a male.
    Bob Orr, best hockey player ever.
    Black Label by Yardley.
    Black Label deodorant by Yardley.
    „Pour toi mon frère.“

    Black Label — Black leather.

    „The dark side of the force is a pathway to many abilities some consider to be unnatural!“
    Star Wars Episode III: Revenge of the Sith

    Since its launch in the mid-sixties, Black Label by Yardley has been the plaything of more than one advertising agency and its art directors. The volte-faces of its positioning seem to come right out of a Mad Men episode: once a classic gentleman’s fragrance, advertised with leather gloves, a pipe, and a brandy, the scent became the addictive intoxicant to long-haired hippies before ending up an accessory to the black leather trousers of some tall dark stranger.

    And then there were the celebrities and VIPs who over the years loaned their names and faces to this masculine lavender scent. Bob Orr, the Canadian-born NHL player and one of the greatest hockey players of all time, delivered a Yardley testimonial for several years, and in 1966 The Monkees appeared in a TV commercial to prove that “some guys have it, some guys never will.”

    Sure to leave you speechless, these two TV commercial gems produced for the Mexican market are not to be missed: La magia negra (1977) and La elegancia se vista en negro (1984).

  • Black Label / Yardley, Bob Orr, Mad Men, Star Wars, The Monkees, Vintage Ad, Yardley

  • Posted: May 13, 2015

    Marlon Brando.
    Marlon Brando.
    Publicity photo 1950s. Original photo via www.undershirtguy.com
    Marlon Brando.
    Paul Newman.
    Jean-Paul Belmondo.
    James Dean.

    Drop your pants!

    Guys, here’s something for you! To help keep your tees and whities looking AND smelling crisp and tidy, New York’s home care label The Laundress has teamed up with US-based perfume house Le Labo. For the collab, they added a generous shot of two Le Labo scents, both of which have a special message for the homemaker in every man.

    Learn from the best with the following scents from Paul, James, Marlon, and Jean-Paul — always be prepared to open your shirts and drop your pants!

    SANTAL 33
    Digs into our collective unconscious to evoke the masculinity of the good ol’ Marlboro ads: a man and his horse in front of the fire on a great plain under tall, blue evening skies, firelight in his face as he leans on the worn leather saddle, alone with the desert wind. The scent uses cardamom, iris, violet, ambrox, and some spicy, leathery, musky notes to bring you the feel of masculinity and personal freedom.

    ROSE 33
    Roses are for ladies? Well yes, but no: Rose 33 strives to transform the famous symbol of voluptuousness and femininity into a fragrance that can be used by both sexes alike. Centifolia rose, quickly picked up by warm, spicy, woodsy notes such as cumin, olibanum, cedar, and amber create a disturbing gender ambiguity. In the background, guaiac wood and cistus highlight a distinctly physical animal note.

  • Amber, Cardamom, Cedar, Cistus, Cumin, Guaiac Wood, Iris, James Dean, Le Labo, Marlon Brando, Musk, New York, Olibanum, Paul Belmondo, Paul Newman, Rose, Rose 33 / Le Labo, Santal 33 / Le Labo, The Laundress, Violet

  • Posted: May 06, 2015


    Image: 20first.

    Perfume quote by C. JoyBell C.

  • C. C. JoyBell, Perfume Quote

  • Posted: April 30, 2015

    Muguet de Bonheur by Caron.
    Muguet de Bonheur by Caron.
    Vintage ad, 1957. Via: www.delcampe.net.
    Muguet de Bonheur by Caron.
    Mais Oui by Bourjois.
    Muguet de Bonheur by Caron.
    Divine by D’Orsay.
    Muguet des Bois by Coty.
    Muguet des Bois by Coty.

    It’s that time of the year again …

    Vintage perfume ads that look and feel like spring!

  • Bourjois, Caron, Coty, Divine / D’Orsay, Dominique Fircsa, D’Orsay, Mais Oui / Bourjois, Muguet de Bonheur / Caron, Muguet des Bois / Coty, Pat Xanti, Spring, Vintage Ad

  • Posted: April 17, 2015

    Sud Magnolia by Atelier Cologne, 2015.
    Sud Magnolia by Atelier Cologne, 2015.
    Perfumer: Jerome Epinette.
    Sud Magnolia by Atelier Cologne, 2015.
    Magnolia Romana by Eau d’Italie, 2008.
    Magnolia Grandiflora Sandrine by Grandiflora, 2013.
    Eau de Magnolia by Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle, 2014.
    Agua Magnoliana by Fueguia 1833, 2013.

    The blossom of spring!

    SCENTURY brings to you 20 perfumes inspired by and named after Magnolia Grandiflora, the strange but beautiful blossom that kick-starts spring with its mesmerizing fragrance.

    “The scent of magnolia, the face of a girl
    And every detail embodies the world“
    David Sylvian, The Scent Of Magnolia

    01. Sud Magnolia by Atelier Cologne, 2015

    02. Magnolia Romana by Eau d’Italie, 2008

    03. Magnolia Grandiflora Sandrine by Grandiflora, 2013

    04. Eau de Magnolia by Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle, 2014

    05. Agua Magnoliana by Fueguia 1833, 2013


    06. Capricho Floral – Idilio de Magnolia by Victorio & Lucchino, 2014

    07. Classica di Magnolia by Pineider, 2012

    08. Eau de Fleur de Magnolia by Kenzo, 2008

    09. Field of Flowers – Magnolia Blossom by Philosophy, 2012

    10. Flora (Glamorous Magnolia) by Gucci, 2012

    11. Magnolia by Chanel, 1929

    12. Magnolia & Cassis by Strenesse, 2012

    13. Magnolia Grove I by Phoenix Botanicals, 2013

    14. Magnolia Nobile by Acqua di Parma, 2009

    15. Magnolia Pourpre by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier, 2001

    16. No. 23 Magnolia & Pink Pepper by Rituals, 2013

    17. Pear and Pink Magnolia by Crabtree & Evelyn, 2014

    18. Rose Magnolia by Helena Rubinstein, 1946

    19. Savannah Magnolia by Nomaterra, 2013

    20. Sexy Sparkle Sweet Magnolia by Victoria’s Secret, 2007

  • Acqua di Parma, Agua Magnoliana / Fueguia 1833, Atelier Cologne, Bertrand Duchaufour, Capricho Floral – Idilio de Magnolia / Victorio & Lucchino, Carlos Benaim, Chanel, Classica di Magnolia / Pineider, Crabtree & Evelyn, David Sylvian, Eau de Fleur de Magnolia / Kenzo, Eau de Magnolia / Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle, Eau d’Italie, Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle, Field of Flowers – Magnolia Blossom / Philosophy, Fueguia 1833, Grandiflora, Gucci, Gucci Flora: Glamorous Magnolia / Gucci, Helena Rubinstein, Jerome Epinette, Julian Bedel, Kenzo, Magnolia, Magnolia & Cassis / Strenesse, Magnolia / Chanel, Magnolia Grandiflora Sandrine / Grandiflora, Magnolia Grove I / Phoenix Botanicals, Magnolia Nobile / Acqua di Parma, Magnolia Pourpre / Maître Parfumeur et Gantier, Magnolia Romana / Eau d’Italie, Maître Parfumeur et Gantier, No. 23 Magnolia & Pink Pepper / Rituals, Nomaterra, Pear and Pink Magnolia / Crabtree & Evelyn, Philosophy, Phoenix Botanicals, Pineider, Rituals, Rose Magnolia / Helena Rubinstein, Sandrine Videault, Savannah Magnolia / Nomaterra, Sexy Sparkle Sweet Magnolia / Victoria’s Secret, Spring, Strenesse, Sud Magnolia / Atelier Cologne, Victoria’s Secret, Victorio & Lucchino

  • Posted: March 25, 2015

    Emeraude Coty, 1921.
    Emeraude Coty, 1921.
    Perfumeur: François Coty.
    Emeraude Coty, 1921.

    Advice to the young at heart.

    We stumbled over this ad for Emeraude from a 1964 newspaper. It’s not only the layout making clever use of the extreme format that caught our eye – we also fell in love with the cheeky claim itself!

    Emeraude is an oriental fragrance for women, designed by François Coty himself and launched in 1921. The perfume is still in production though the liquid has been reformulated over time.

    Top notes are orange, bergamot and lemon; middle notes are jasmine, ylang-ylang, rose and Brazilian rosewood; base notes are amber, sandalwood, patchouli, opoponax, benzoin and vanilla.

    Stay young!

  • 1921, Amber, Benzoin, Bergamot, Coty, Emeraude / Coty, François Coty, Jasmine, Lemon, Opoponax, Orange, Patchouli, Rose, Rosewood, Sandalwood, Vanilla, Vintage Ad, Ylang Ylang

  • Posted: March 15, 2015


    Image: 20first.

    Perfume quote by Serge Lutens.

  • Perfume Quote, Serge Lutens

  • Posted: March 10, 2015

    Egypt by Eight & Bob, 2014.
    Egypt by Eight & Bob, 2014.
    Photo by Helder Suffenplan. Via: 20first.
    Egypt by Eight & Bob, 2014.
    L’Eau Froide by Serge Lutens, 2012.
    My Burning Secret by Technique Indiscrète, 2011.
    Cuir by Mona di Orio, 2010.
    Ray of Light by April Aromatics, 2014.
    Special for Gentlemen by Le Galion, 1947.
    Icon by Dunhill, 2015.

    The olfactive joys of fatherhood.

    We were invited to curate and photograph a selection of fragrances for the DADDY edition of Mum, Germany’s biggest maternity lifestyle magazine. Here, our top seven scent-worthy images of dads: gentle, strong, caring, sexy, and inspiring. Enjoy!

    01. Egypt by Eight & Bob
    For those who always pictured their distant father as an adventurer: cardamom, nutmeg, dry sandalwood, and earthy patchouli on the suntanned skin of Laurence of Arabia.
    www.eightandbob.com

    02. L’Eau Froide by Serge Lutens
    A solid-as-a-rock father who you could always turn to: mint, cedar wood, and cooling incense from Somalia convey the image of worldly ease and poised self-assuredness.
    www.sergelutens.com

    03. My Burning Secret by Technique Indiscrète
    The mystery man in the crowd: herbaceous citrusy masculinity softened by amber and tonka bean channels the image of a clean-shaven Gregory Peck facing the evils of the world.
    www.techniqueindiscrete.com

    04. Cuir by Mona di Orio
    Forbidden territory: you’re five years old and should be sound asleep. But music, the sound of chatter from the library, and the smell of cigar smoke had you peeping through the crack in the door.
    www.monadiorio.com

    05. Ray of Light by April Aromatics
    Sunday morning and the living is easy: sun beams dance on the lime-washed floor, as daddy sits in his wingback chair, reading the paper and listening to Charlie Parker.
    www.aprilaromatics.com

    06. Special For Gentlemen by Le Galion
    If your father was Yves Montand, this 1947 classic would linger in your room after he kisses you good night, rushing off to perform at the Olympia in front of tout Paris.
    www.legalionparfums.com

    07. Icon by Dunhill
    This brand new Dunhill fragrance has the impact of a Trojan horse: a creamy but clean scent inside a heavy metal flacon that looks like it dropped from the engine of a Lamborghini.
    www.dunhill.com

  • Amber, April Aromatics, Cardamom, Cedarwood, Charlie Parker, Cuir / Mona di Orio, Daddy, Dunhill, Egypt / Eight & Bob, Eight & Bob, Father, Icon / Dunhill, Incense, Laurence of Arabia, Le Galion, L’Eau Froide / Serge Lutens, Mint, Mona di Orio, Mum Magazine, My Burning Secret / Technique Indiscrète, Nutmeg, Paris, Patchouli, Ray of Light / April Aromatics, Sandalwood, Serge Lutens, Special for Gentlemen / Le Galion, Technique Indiscrete, Tonka Bean, Yves Montand

  • Posted: February 03, 2015

    The Le Galion perfume range in 1945.
    The Le Galion perfume range in 1945.
    Vintage ad by Louis Ferrant, 1945. Via: www.hprints.com
    The Le Galion perfume range in 1945.
    The Le Galion perfume range in the 1930s.
    Special for Gentleman by Le Galion.
    Whip by Le Galion.
    Bourrasque by Le Galion.

    To see it is to smell it.

    Le Galion, the Parisian perfume house of Paul Vacher, one of the great masters of perfumery in the twentieth century, was not only known for its exceptionally elegant fragrance creations, it possesses a long tradition of artful advertising campaigns as well.

    We bring to you some of Le Galion’s most memorable ad motives: witty, sexy, elegant or simply pretty.

    Le Galion was founded in 1930 by a descendant of Napoleon, Prince Murat. In 1935, Le Galion was sold to perfumer Paul Vacher, who was already famous within the industry at that time. Vacher had worked with Marcel Guerlain and later Lanvin where he developed the new perfume business within the fashion house. Lanvin’s classic Arpège is one of his creations (1927). Following this success, he decided to launch his own perfume house.

    Apart from launching a suite of extremely successful scents for his own label, Paul Vacher created two perfume icons for Christian Dior: Miss Dior (1946) and Diorling (1963).

    In 1980, five years after Paul Vacher’s death, Le Galion was sold to an American group. Poorly managed, the company quickly collapsed. 2014, more than 30 years later, Le Galion Perfume House has been resurrected by Nicholas Chabot, an expert for brand building and admirer of the legacy of Paul Vacher.

    Find more information about the brand’s history and its range of fragrances here: www.legalionparfums.com

  • Arpège / Lanvin, Bourrasque / Le Galion, Christian Dior, Claude Maurel, Diorling / Christian Dior, Guerlain, Jacques Darnel, Lanvin, Le Galion, Marcel Guerlain, Miss Dior / Christian Dior, Nicolas Chabot, Paris, Paul Vacher, Prince Murat, Special for Gentleman / Le Galion, Whip / Le Galion

  • Posted: January 27, 2015

    Oopla! Grace Jones giving a hand to Divine.
    Oopla! Grace Jones giving a hand to Divine.
    Via: www.lifelounge.com.au
    Oopla! Grace Jones giving a hand to Divine.
    Incognito: Liza Minelli, Truman Capote.
    Rumor has it: Jerry Hall. Andy Warhol.
    Coming of age: Brooke Shields, Debbie Harry.
    Straight from Berlin: David Bowie, Romy Haag.
    Opium to the people: YSL, Loulou de la Falaise.
    Calvin Klein by Calvin Klein.

    A sweat-soaked drug-fueled haze of … Halston, Gucci, Fiorucci.

    Studio 54 needs no introduction. The legendary club of all clubs had a famed guest list, a perfect play list, and a fabulous interior. But what did it smell like in there?

    Apart from a sweat-soaked drug-fueled haze of cigarette smoke, surely perfume wafted through the club. We don’t know what Klaus Nomi, Debbie Harry, or Bianca Jagger wore, but there were plenty of perfume lines born from regular guests. For one, star designer Roy Halston Frowick (“Just call me Halston!”) launched his successful perfumes 1-12 and Z-14 shortly before the opeing of Studio 54 in 1977.

    In 1978 Ralph Lauren launched two perfumes: the green-floral Lauren for women and the powerhouse classic Polo for men. The same year an up-and-coming Calvin Klein presented his first signature scent, the eponymous Calvin Klein (“floral, feminine, and intense”). And then of course there was Yves Saint Laurent — the master. He celebrated the introduction of scandal-riddled Opium at the South Street Seaport on a pirate ship decked out with gold, red, and purple sails, 1,000 orchids, and a 1,000-pound Buddha statue. YSL, Loulou de la Falaise, Diana Vreeland, and the rest of the gang headed over to Studio 54 for the afterparty until the wee hours.

    Other classics that made their debut during this famed era were Oscar by Oscar de la Renta, Ungaro by Emanuel Ungaro, and Anaïs Anaïs by Cacharel. And let’s not forget Fiorucci’s super popular fun scent. The brand gets a shout out in Sister Sledge’s disco classic, He’s the Greatest Dancer: “He wears the finest clothes, the best designers heaven knows … Halston, Gucci, Fiorucci.”

    Read our more detailed piece about Studio 54 on our media partner’s website: www.interview.de

  • 1-12 / Halston, Anaïs Anaïs / Cacharel, Berlin, Bianca Jagger, Cacharel, Calvin Klein, Calvin Klein / Calvin Klein, Claus Nomi, David Bowie, Debbie Harry, Diana Vreeland, Emanuel Ungaro, Fiorucci, Grace Jones, Halston, Loulou de la Falaise, New York, Opium / Yves Saint Laurent, Oscar / Oscar de la Renta, Oscar de la Renta, Polo / Ralph Lauren, Ralph Lauren, Romy Haag, Roy Halston, Sudio 54, Ungaro / Emanuel Ungaro, Yves Saint Laurent, Z-14 / Halston

  • Posted: January 14, 2015


    Image: 20first.

    Perfume quote by Jeffrey Stepakoff.

  • Jeffrey Stepakoff, Perfume Quote

  • Posted: December 24, 2014

    Diana Vreeland, seen by Andy Warhol.
    Diana Vreeland, seen by Andy Warhol.
    © The Andy Warhol Foundation. Via: www.horstson.de
    Diana Vreeland, seen by Andy Warhol.
    Strike a pose! Diana Vreeland, 1930s.
    Diana Vreeland at home. 1960s.
    Cher for Vogue, 1969.
    Diana Vreeland in Rolling Stone Magazine, 1977.

    Diana Vreeland: “Without style, you’re nobody.”

    A new fragrance line has been launched to honor Diana Vreeland (1903 – 1989), former editor of both Harper’s Bazaar (1957 – 1962) and Vogue (1962 – 1972) and the “only genius in the history of fashion magazines,” according to Richard Avedon.

    Vreeland liberated fashion photography from its uninspired and stiff poses with a blaze of innovative ideas and images. Pretty much everything to love about modern fashion magazines was her invention.

    Born in 1903 to a wealthy Parisian family, she was exposed from an early age to a smart and glamorous set of intellectuals, artists, and celebrities — her riding instructor was none other than Buffalo Bill. Not being a classic beauty — photographer Cecil Beaton once called her “an elegant crane picking her way out of a swamp” — she soon discovered that esprit and style went a lot further than just good looks. Her affinity for unconventional beauties such as Cher, Anjelica Huston, and Barbara Streisand comes as no surprise, and using celebrities as cover models was one of her many pioneering moves.

    After her family moved to the US, Vreeland started her publishing career with a magazine column titled “Why Don’t You?” Some of her “Why Don’t You…” suggestions were to wash your child’s hair with champagne and to smoke only cigarettes branded with your monogram — suggestions made in the midst of the Great Depression no less.

    Her legacy includes the brilliant memos she circulated during her editorial days, a mix of genius and oddity, which her grandson Alexander Vreeland compiled and published in 2013. Some of our favorites: “The bikini is the most important thing since the atom bomb.”; “I repeat, again, the importance of knee socks.”; and, “Lettuce is divine, though I am not sure it’s really food.”

    Her grandson produced the Diana Vreeland documentary The eye has to travel, a must for anyone interested in the history of fashion and fashion magazines. Alexander’s latest tribute is the launch of a series of fragrances under the name Diana Vreeland Perfumes. The monikers of all five scents are inspired by Diana’s affection for superlatives (Perfectly Marvelous, Outrageously Vibrant, …) and the flacons are five different shades of her favorite color, red. The bottles and packaging were created by design legend Fabien Baron, each with a magnetic cap (click!) and silk tassel. Diana would have loved this!

    Admittedly, we expected the liquids to embody something more daring and challenging given that one of Vreeland’s mottos was: “Style, all who have it share one thing: originality.” But perhaps this is just the natural course of things when one moves from rebel to legend.

    Our favorite of the fragrances is Extravagance Russe, a tart but sensual scent with balsamic resins, musk, and amber. It is inspired by the exhibition Vreeland curated at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, in which she staged the historical costumes of the Ballets Russe with flamboyant design and — believe or not — vast quantities of the Chanel classic Cuire de Russie blown into the air. How extravagant indeed!

    Find out more about the new Diana Vreeland Perfume line: www.dianavreeland.com.

    For more details about the launch, head over to our post at our media partner’s site: www.interview.de.

  • À la Mode, Alexander Vreeland, Amber, Andy Warhol, Anjelica Huston, Barbra Streisand, Buffalo Bill, Carnation, Cecil Beaton, Chanel, Cher, Cuire de Russie / Diana Vreeland Perfumes, Diana Vreeland, Diana Vreeland Perfumes, Fabien Baron, Fashion, George Hoyningen-Huene, Geranium, Guy Laroche, Harper’s Bazaar, Incense, Mimosa, Musk, New York, Outrageously Vibrant / Diana Vreeland Perfumes, Paris, Perfectly Marvelous / Diana Vreeland Perfumes, Richard Avedon, Violet, Vogue, Woody Notes

  • Posted: November 25, 2014

    Zen Original by Shiseido, 1964.
    Zen Original by Shiseido, 1964.
    Perfumer: Josephine Catapani. © 20first
    Zen Original by Shiseido, 1964.
    Elegant women visiting temple in Kyoto, 2014.
    Book cover for the Tokyo Olympics, 1964.
    Zen Original by Shiseido.

    Mysterious, elegant, ahead of its time.

    I found this beauty in a small barber shop on Teramachi Street — one of my favorite spots in Kyoto.

    It is difficult to find in the west which is a shame because anyone who loves fragrance should know this timeless and unique masterpiece created by Josephine Catapano (Youth Dew for Estée Lauder, Fidji for Guy Laroche). It was launched in 1964, the year of the Tokyo Olympics, and has nothing to do with Shiseido’s scent of the same name from 2000 and its many flankers. That is why it is referred to as Zen Original.

    The basic idea behind this extremely complex floral mossy chypre is the mysterious play between light and shadows. A bright citrusy blast introduces light-hearted flowers and intense greens: dry rose, narcissus, mimosa, geranium, carnation, violet and many others.

    The shadows are represented by smoky woods and resins, and a warm, slightly animalic musk. Incense adds more than a touch of oriental mysticism.

    Elegant, sophisticated, way ahead of its time. And yes: it also works for men!

  • Carnation, Estée Lauder, Fidji / Guy Laroche, Geranium, Guy Laroche, Incense, Japan, Josephine Catapano, Kyoto, Mimosa, Musk, Narcissus, Rose, Shiseido, Violet, Woody Notes, Youth Dew / Estée Lauder, Zen Original / Shiseido

  • Posted: October 31, 2014

    Tilda Swinton as Marchesa Luisa Casati.
    Tilda Swinton as Marchesa Luisa Casati.
    Paolo Roversi, 2008. Via: www.marie-amourfou.blogspot.de
    Tilda Swinton as Marchesa Luisa Casati.
    Marchesa Luisa Casati, 1937.
    Bust of the Marchesa Casati.
    The Marchesa Casati, 1919.
    The new flacons of Mona di Orio, 2014.
    Luisa Casati having a ball.

    Myrrh Casati: a tribute Luisa Casati, muse of eccentricity.

    Exciting news arrives out of perfume house Mona di Orio. Co-founder Jeroen Oude Sogtoen paves the way for the brand’s future on the eve of its 10th anniversary, three years after the tragic death of perfumer di Orio.

    The most obvious change is in the design of the new bottles, reimagined in collaboration with Ateliers Dinand (named after Pierre Dinand, creator of timeless perfume flacons such as Opium by Yves Saint Laurent and Ivoire by Balmain). The result is just as sexy and haptic as the works of Constantin Brancusi, an inspiration Jeroen cites in our November 2013 interview with him.

    The biggest news comes in the launch of Myrrh Casati, the house’s first new fragrance since Mona’s premature death in 2011. It was created by Melanie Leroux, who was invited to design the scent as part of the newly introduced Monogram Collection. Jeroen has always made clear that the best way to honor Mona’s legacy is to keep the brand alive and modern: “Mona was young, I am young, our house is young. I want a lively joyous house!”

    Myrrh Casati is a tribute to Marchesa Luisa Casati (1881 – 1957), the legendary patron of the arts, and muse of eccentricity. She was famous for showing up at festivities with leashed cheetahs, gilded servants, and an infectious waft of incense and mystery. She was friends with many artists and poets — Gabriele D’Annunzio and Man Ray to name a couple. John Galliano and Alexander McQueen were taken with her dark and lavish style, and in 2009 Italian photographer Paolo Reversi staged actress Tilda Swinton as Marchesa for Acne Paper magazine.

    Leroux built this fragrance on Mona di Orio’s iconic chiaroscuro (light vs. dark) style. Mysterious myrrh is the star ingredient in this creation, enrapt with herbal notes of licorice, cardamom, and saffron, and led by top notes of spicy red berries and pink pepper. Incense, benzoin, heady patchouli, and smoky guaiac wood form the base of this complex and original scent — very Monaesque.

    More about Mona di Orio
    Read our extensive interview with Jeroen Oude Sogtoen, co-founder and brand designer of Mona Di Orio, here.

    Recommended reading
    Blind tasting and interview with composer and performer Adam Donen: Cuir by Mona di Orio.

    Recommended reading
    Blind tasting and interview with artist Kandis Williams: Tubéreuse by Mona di Orio.

  • Alexander McQueen, Autumn, Benzoin, Cardamom, Constantin Brancusi, Gabriele D’Annunzio, Guaiac Wood, Incense, Ivoire / Pierre Balmain, Jeroen Oude Sogtoen, John Galliano, Licorice, Man Ray, Marchesa Luisa Casati, Melanie Leroux, Mona di Orio, Myrrh, Myrrh Casati / Mona di Orio, Opium / Yves Saint Laurent, Paolo Reversi, Patchouli, Red Berries, Saffron, Tilda Swinton, Top 5 Autumn Scents, Yves Saint Laurent

  • Posted: October 24, 2014

    Spezie by Lorenzo Villoresi, 1994.
    Spezie by Lorenzo Villoresi, 1994.
    Perfumer: Lorenzo Villoresi.
    Spezie by Lorenzo Villoresi, 1994.
    L’Orpheline by Serge Lutens, 2014.
    Iris Nazarena by Aedes de Venustas, 2013.
    Marwar by Code Deco, 2013.
    Tundra by Rouge Bunny Rouge, 2014

    5 unique scents for a more sensual autumn 2014.

    “Autumn is a second spring, when every leaf is a flower.” Albert Camus

    Strolling through the woods while collecting chestnuts, berries and mushrooms; admiring the many colors of Indian summer; lighting the first fire of the season in the fireplace. These are just some of the joys of autumn — a time when nature offers intoxicating scents of ripeness as well as decay. We selected 5 unique perfumes to welcome the new season:

    01. Spezie by Lorenzo Villoresi, 1994
    Reminiscent of working in your granny’s garden, gathering homegrown laurel, sage, and coriander. Stepping inside as night falls, washing your hands with her old-fashioned spicy herbal soap before sitting down for a nice cup of tea, incense burning on the kitchen table. Green, spicy, and exotic in the beginning – a dry, metallic powdery finish.
    Perfumer: Lorenzo Villoresi

    02. L’Orpheline by Serge Lutens, 2014
    The latest creation from the grandmaster of perfume storytelling is all about the play between chill and warmth: clean musk versus warm incense, bridged by a spicy and fruity nutmeg. Like moss-covered rocks touched by the autumn sun. Sensuality and intelligence united in one bottle!
    Perfumer: Christopher Sheldrake

    03. Iris Nazarena by Aedes de Venustas, 2013
    This is how the skin and the hair of your beloved smells after a day in the wind and sun – hiking through the meadows and woods of a northern landscape. Dry bone iris, moist roots, oak and teak, the salty earth. Not exactly a conventional beauty but easy to fall for!
    Perfumer: Ralf Schwieger

    04. Marwar by Code Deco, 2013
    The unique moment when the sun disappears behind the treetops. Mist rises from the ground, carrying the scent of cedar wood, cyclamen, marigold, and vetiver into the cool night air. Obviously there’s a skylark calling from the distance; when you get home you might want to put on Im Abendrot by Richard Strauss.
    Perfumer: unknown

    05. Tundra by Rouge Bunny Rouge, 2014
    The makers say this scent depicts the first day of spring in the arctic tundra. To us it’s everything autumnal: a fierce landscape, a vivid sky, the melancholic calls of brants heading south, leaving you behind. A bitter opening of pink pepper, laurel, and cedar wood atop an earthy base of moss and vetiver. Mystical!
    Perfumer: Nathalie Lorson

  • Aedes de Venustas, Autumn, Cedarwood, Christopher Sheldrake, Code Deco, Coriander, Cyclamen, Incense, Iris, Iris Nazarena / Aedes de Venustas, Laurel, Lorenzo Villoresi, L’Orpheline / Serge Lutens, Marigold, Marwar / Code Deco, Moss, Musk, Nathalie Lorson, Nutmeg, Oak, Pink Pepper, Ralf Schwiger, Rouge Bunny Rouge, Sage, Serge Lutens, Spezie / Lorenzo Villoresi, Teak, Top 5 Autumn Scents, Tundra / Rouge Bunny Rouge, Vetiver

  • Posted: October 02, 2014

    Shalimar by Guerlain.
    Shalimar by Guerlain.
    Vintage Ad, 1933.
    Shalimar by Guerlain.

    Talking about a revolution sounds like … Shalimar.

    When Guerlain launched Shalimar in 1925 it was celebrated as the most revolutionary scent of its time. Perfumer Jacques Guerlain blended Bergamot, Jasmine, Rose, Iris, Tonka Bean and loads of Vanilla to create the first oriental fragrance in perfume history.

    Shalimar means Temple of Love in Sanskrit. This is the name that Mogul Emperor, Shah Jahan, gave to the legendary garden he created as a gift for his lover. Luca Turin, the perfume world’s luminary No.1, describes Shalimar as “deceptively simple”, and evocative of “an evening in Paris” as “catching a glimpse of the Eiffel Tower lit up for New Year’s”.

  • 1925, Bergamot, Guerlain, Iris, Jacques Guerlain, Jasmine, Luca Turin, Oriental, Rose, Shalimar / Guerlain, Tonka Bean, Vanilla

  • Posted: September 22, 2014


    Image: 20first.

    Anonymous perfume quote.

  • Perfume Quote

  • Posted: September 20, 2014

    Chanel No. 5 by Chanel, 1921.
    Chanel No. 5 by Chanel, 1921.
    Perfumer: Ernest Beaux.
    Chanel No. 5 by Chanel, 1921.
    Coco Chanel and Suzy Parker.
    Coco Chanel, 1883 – 1971.
    Chanel No. 5.
    Catherine Deneuve for Chanel No. 5.
    Coco Chanel in her famous mirror staircase.

    Coco’s lucky number!

    No other name could possibly stand on top of our list of “Designer Scents that changed the way we perceive perfume”!

    Since its creation in 1920 Chanel No. 5 has become a synonym for perfume itself. Even to those who never owned or even smelled it — the name Chanel No. 5 sounds familiar.

    Coco Chanel (the only fashion designer on Time magazine’s list of the 100 most influential people of the 20th century) liberated herself from the poverty of her humble beginnings — and liberated the women of the world by replacing the corseted silhouette with her vision of sportive, casual chic.

    In 1920 she commissioned master perfumer Ernest Beaux to create an innovative scent that would epitomize the modern flapper and the liberated spirit of the 1920s. Legend has it that the striking success of the scent is mainly a result of mere serendipity. Beaux’s assistant grabbed the wrong bottle and used a full strength mixture of aldehydes instead of a ten percent dilution. Never before had this ingredient been used in such quantity. Beaux was overwhelmed with the effect and had the balls to present it to Chanel.

    He prepared ten glass vials for Chanel’s inspection. Madame had a clear preference: “Number five. Yes!” Chanel said later, “that is what I was waiting for. A perfume like nothing else. A woman’s perfume, with the scent of a woman.”

    For Chanel, the number five signified the pure embodiment of a thing, its spirit. It was her lucky number. That’s how the baby got its name: “I present my dress collections on the fifth of May, the fifth month of the year and so we will let this sample number five keep the name it has already, it will bring good luck.” That lady should have bought a lottery ticket!

    Top Notes: Aldehydes, Bergamot, Neroli, Ylang-Ylang
    Middle Notes: Iris, Jasmine, Lily of the Valley, Rose
    Base Notes: Amber, Patchouli, Sandalwood, Vanilla, Vetiver

    Launched: 1921
    Category: feminine
    Perfumer: Ernest Beaux
    Bottle Designer: unknown
    Availability: in production

  • 1921, À la Mode, Aldehydes, Amber, Bergamot, Catherine Deneuve, Chanel, Chanel No. 5 / Chanel, Coco Chanel, Ernest Beaux, Fashion, Iris, Jasmine, Lily of the Valley, Neroli, Paris, Patchouli, Richard Avedon, Rose, Sandalwood, Suzy Parker, Top 10 Designer Scents, Vanilla, Vetiver, Ylang Ylang

  • Posted: August 26, 2014

    L’Interdit by Givenchy, 1957.
    L’Interdit by Givenchy, 1957.
    Perfumer: Francis Fabron.
    L’Interdit by Givenchy, 1957.
    Hubert de Givenchy and Audrey Hepburn in Paris.
    At a dress fitting for a fashion editorial, April 26, 1958 Rome.
    Hubert de Givenchy, *1927.
    Audrey Hepburn for L’Interdit.
    Audrey Hepburn relaxing with Hubert de Givenchy.

    Strictly forbidden!

    L’Interdit by Givenchy is most likely the first celebrity fragrance in history — though this may not have been what Hubert de Givenchy had in mind when he commissioned perfumer Francis Fabron (L’Air du Temps by Nina Ricci) to create a scent for his best friend, Audrey Hepburn.

    Legend has it the actress was so taken with the scent that when Givenchy suggested marketing it she said: “But I forbid you!” That’s how the fragrance got its name: L’Interdit, the forbidden. Givenchy respected her wish for many years until it was finally introduced for a wider public using Hepburn as testimonial.

    The original from 1957 has been described as both elegant and youthful — a floral aldehyde scent with a strong fruity note of peach, orange and wild strawberry. The scent was discontinued in the 1990s but relaunched in 2002 in a streamlined, inoffensive version.

    Givenchy is the offspring from an aristocratic family with a distinct artistic tradition. After working for Jacques Fath, Elsa Schiaparelli, Robert Piguet and Lucien Lelong he opened his own house in 1952. He retired in 1995.

    Hubert de Givenchy designed Audrey Hepburn’s private wardrobe as well as outfits for many of her movies, the most famous being the little black dress from Breakfast at Tiffany’s. Audrey Hepburn once described the designer:

    “His are the only clothes in which I am myself. He is far more than a couturier, he is a creator of personality.”

    Top Notes: Aldehydes, Bergamot, Clove, Orange, Peach, Strawberry, Pepper
    Middle Notes: Iris, Jasmine, Lily of the Valley, Narcissus, Orris, Rose, Violet, Ylang Ylang
    Base Notes: Amber, Benzoin, Incense, Musk, Sandalwood, Tonka Bean, Vetiver

    Launched: 1973
    Category: feminine
    Perfumer: Francis Fabron
    Bottle Designer: unknown
    Availability: in production

  • 1957, 1973, À la Mode, Actress, Aldehydes, Amber, Audrey Hepburn, Benzoin, Bergamot, Clove, Elsa Schiaparelli, Fashion, Francis Fabron, Givenchy, Incense, Iris, Jacques Fath, Jasmine, Le Cinéma Olfactif, Lily of the Valley, Lucien Lelong, L’Air du Temps / Nina Ricci, L’Interdit / Givenchy, Musk, Narcissus, Nina Ricci, Orange, Orris, Paris, Peach, Pepper, Robert Piguet, Rose, Sandalwood, Strawberry, Tonka Bean, Top 10 Designer Scents, Vetiver, Violet, Ylang Ylang

  • Posted: August 19, 2014

    YSL Pour Homme by Yves Saint Laurent, 1971.
    YSL Pour Homme by Yves Saint Laurent, 1971.
    YSL Pour Homme by Yves Saint Laurent, 1971.
    Yves Saint Laurent – the naked Saint, 1971.
    The master and his muse, Catherine Deneuve.
    Let’s get dressed!
    Dolce & Gabbana Eyewear campaign, 2011
    A less subtle version. Mark Jacobs by Juergen Teller.

    Melancholic citrus!

    In a life that has been full of superlatives, extremes and firsts, the advertising campaign for Yves Saint Laurent’s first male fragrance YSL Pour Homme (1971) deserves to find special mention. It was the first time a designer of a fashion label would appear in a perfume campaign – and certainly the first time he’d do it in the nude (glasses don’t really count, do they). The picture had been taken by star photographer Jeanloup Sieff.

    The image of young Saint Laurent posing as a more carnal Messiah in front of a bright halo reached icon-status in the gay community and served as a landmark of fashion advertising. Marc Jacobs’ campaign for Bang (2010) or Dolce & Gabbana’s eye wear campaign by Mariano Vivanco clearly refer to the Sieff image from 1971.

    However, Pierre Bergé, Saint Laurent’s partner in life and business, told Dutch magazine in 1997: “It was just provocation on the part of Yves Saint Laurent.”

    How about the scent itself? It has been labeled a melancholic citrus and yes, it’s a traditional citrus and woody scent like many others in the early 70s. What makes it stand out from the rest is its herbal components: fresh chopped lavender, lemon verbena, thyme and rosemary with a hint of marjoram.

    Top Notes: Bergamot, Lavender, Lemon, Lemon verbena, Petitgrain
    Middle Notes: Carnation, Clary Sage, Geranium, Marjoram, Rosemary, Rosewood
    Base Notes: Amber, Cedar, Musk, Patchouli, Sandalwood, Tonka Bean, Vetiver

    Launched: 1971
    Category: masculine
    Perfumer: unknown
    Bottle Designer: Pierre Dinand
    Availability: in production

  • 1971, À la Mode, Amber, Bang / Marc Jacobs, Bergamot, Carnation, Catherine Deneuve, Cedar, Clary Sage, Fashion, Geranium, Jeanloup Sieff, Lavender, Lemon, Lemon verbena, Marc Jacobs, Mariano Vivanco, Marjoram, Musk, Paris, Patchouli, Petitgrain, Pierre Bergé, Pierre Dinand, Rosemary, Rosewood, Sandalwood, Tonka Bean, Top 10 Designer Scents, Vetiver, YSL Pour Homme / Yves Saint Laurent, Yves Saint Laurent

  • Posted: August 15, 2014

    Comme des Garçons Parfum by Comme des Garçons, 1994.
    Comme des Garçons Parfum by Comme des Garçons, 1994.
    Perfumer: Mark Buxton.
    Comme des Garçons Parfum by Comme des Garçons, 1994.
    Rei Kawakubo, *1942.
    Cindy Sherman for Comme des Garçons.
    Comme des Garçons, Fall/Winter 2012/13.
    Tatjana Patitz (right) for Comme des Garçons.

    Warm, dark, dirty!

    The label was started by Rei Kawakubo in 1969. After succeeding in Japan in the 1970s Comme des Garçons had its debut show in Paris in 1981. The predominant use of black and “destroyed” fabrics was new and shocking. The show was one of the starting points for “deconstruction”, one of the main fashion trends of the 1980ies. Lady Gaga, Usher, Tilda Swinton and John Waters are among the celebrities that have been wearing Comme des Garçons on a regular basis.

    The label released its first fragrance, Comme des Garçons Parfums, in 1994. The scent opens with a blast of cinnamon, cardamom and other spices — blended with what should later become the signature of Comme des Garçons’s fragrance line: incense. The scent was created by Mark Buxton and marked his international breakthrough. The fragrance is considered a landmark in modern perfumery! Comme des Garçons latest fragrance GIRL, a collaboration with Pharrell Williams, is to be released in the fall of 2014. Artist KAWS designed the bottle.

    Comme des Garçons is famous for its collaborations with various other labels including Fred Perry, Speedo, Nike, Lacoste, Louis Vuitton, H&M, and many others.

    Top Notes: Carnation, Geranium, Rose
    Middle Notes: Cardamom, Cinnamon, Coriander, Honey, Labdanum, Nutmeg
    Base Notes: Cedar, Incense, Olibanum, Sandalwood, Styrax

    Launched: 1994
    Category: unisex
    Perfumer: Mark Buxton
    Bottle Designer: Rei Kawakubo, Marc Atlan
    Availability: in production

  • 1994, À la Mode, Cardamom, Carnation, Cedar, Cinnamon, Comme des Garçons, Comme des Garçons Parfum / Comme des Garçons, Coriander, Geranium, GIRL / Comme des Garçons, Honey, Incense, John Waters, Labdanum, Lady Gaga, Marc Atlan, Mark Buxton, Nutmeg, Olibanum, Paris, Pharrell Williams, Rei Kawakubo, Rose, Sandalwood, Styrax, Tilda Swinton, Tokyo, Top 10 Designer Scents, Usher

  • Posted: July 29, 2014

    Eau Pour Homme by Giorgio Armani, 1984.
    Eau Pour Homme by Giorgio Armani, 1984.
    Perfumer: Roger Pellegrino.
    Eau Pour Homme by Giorgio Armani, 1984.
    Emporio Armani vs. Eau Pour Homme.
    Emporio Armani.
    Giorgio Armani, *1934.
    Richard Gere in Giorgio Armani.
    Giorgio Armani for Barney’s, New York.

    This is a man’s world.

    Eau Pour Homme is regarded as one of the great masculine classics. It is a fresh, citrus eau de cologne with warm and spicy undertones, created in 1984 by Roger Pellegrino.

    Its citrus aromatic composition provides a spontaneous refreshment: petit grain, mandarin, green lemon and orange blossom. The elegant heart of jasmine, lavender and spices leads over to a base of warm woods, vetiver, oakmoss and patchouli.

    Giorgio Armani and his partner in life and business, Sergio Galeotti, founded the label in Milan in 1975. Armani’s clothes were revolutionary at the time, introducing a more natural fit and using a subtle color palette: “My vision was clear: I believed in getting rid of the artifice of clothing. I believed in neutral colors,” Armani explained many years later. The word greige, a blend of beige and grey, is widely attributed to Armani’s palette of subtile non-colors.

    His popularity skyrocketed in America when Richard Gere starred in the 1980 film American Gigolo in Armani’s signature garb, the power suite. Armani also designed the costumes for the smash hit tv series Miami Vice, The Untouchables an many other movies. During the 1980s, wearing Armani became a symbol of success for many business professionals.

    There have been many firsts in Armani’s career: he was the first to ban models with a body mass index under 18, and the first in the world of haute couture to broadcast his collection live on the Internet, on 24 January 2007.

    Top Notes: Basil, Lemon, Mandarin, Orange Blossom, Petit Grain
    Middle Notes: Cinnamon, Clove, Coriander, Jasmine, Lavender, Nutmeg
    Base Notes: Cedar, Oakmoss, Patchouli, Sandalwood, Vetiver

    Launched: 1984
    Category: masculine
    Perfumer: Roger Pellegrino
    Bottle Designer: Alain de Mourgues
    Availability: in production

  • 1984, À la Mode, Alain de Mourgues, Basil, Cedar, Cinnamon, Clove, Coriander, Eau pour Homme / Giorgio Armani, Giorgio Armani, Greige, Jasmine, Lavender, Le Cinéma Olfactif, Lemon, Mandarin, Miami Vice, Milan, Nutmeg, Oakmoss, Orange Blossom, Patchouli, Petit Grain, Richard Gere, Roger Pellegrino, Sandalwood, Sergio Galeotti, Top 10 Designer Scents, Vetiver

  • Posted: July 20, 2014

    L’Eau d’Issey Pour Homme by Issey Mixake, 1994.
    L’Eau d’Issey Pour Homme by Issey Mixake, 1994.
    Perfumer: Jacques Cavallier
    L’Eau d’Issey Pour Homme by Issey Mixake, 1994.
    Issey Miyake, *1938.
    Constructible Clothes, 1969.
    Issey Miyake, Grace Jones at Le Palace, Paris.
    Steve Jobs in an Issey Miyake turtle neck an coat.
    Pleated dress by Issey Miyake.

    The very bearable lightness of being.

    L’Eau D’Issey (1994) combines “eastern“ Japanese minimalism with the idea of a traditional French cologne.

    One of the scents that started the trend of fresh, unisexy-ish aquatic and citrus florals. Probably the blue print for Armani’s huge success Acqua di Giò pour Homme (1996).

    The fruity, floral aromatic freshness of the opening morphs into a softer tobacco, musky, floral outcome. Yuzu, a Japenese citrus fruit, adds a unique tingy sparkle. One of the rare examples of an airy and crisp scent with great sillage and longevity.

    Issey Miyake was born in 1938 in Hiroshima, Japan. After studying in Tokyo, he worked in Paris and New York. In 1970, returning to Tokyo, he founded the Miyake Design Studio. He became famous for a special method of pleating he developed in the late 1980s which allowed him to create “sculptured“ pieces that soon became his trade mark.

    Not many people know that it was Issey Miyake who custom-designed the the black turtle neck Apple founder Steve Jobs used to wear in most of his public appearances. “So I asked Issey to make me some of his black turtlenecks that I liked, and he made me like a hundred of them”, Jobs once told a journalist.

    Top Notes: Calone, Sage, Coriander, Cypress, Lemon, Mandarin, Verbena, Yuzu
    Middle Notes: Cinnamon, Geranium, Lily of the Valley, Mignonette, Nutmeg, Saffron, Water Lily
    Base Notes: Amber, Cypriol, Musk, Sandalwood, Tobacco, Vetiver

    Launched: 1994
    Category: masculine
    Perfumer: Jacques Cavallier
    Bottle Designer: Fabien Baron
    Availability: in production

  • 1994, À la Mode, Acqua di Giò pour Homme / Giorgio Armani, Amber, Calone, Cinnamon, Coriander, Cypress, Cypriol, Fabien Baron, Geranium, Giorgio Armani, Hirsohima, Issey Miyake, Jacques Cavallier, Lemon, Lily of the Valley, L’Eau d’Issey / Issey Miyake, Mandarin, Mignonette, Musk, New York, Nutmeg, Paris, Saffron, Sage, Sandalwood, Steve Jobs, Tobacco, Tokyo, Top 10 Designer Scents, Verbena, Vetiver, Water Lily, Yuzu

  • Posted: July 15, 2014

    Pour Monsieur by Pierre Cardin, 1972.
    Pour Monsieur by Pierre Cardin, 1972.
    Pour Monsieur by Pierre Cardin, 1972.
    Cardin signing his new executive jet design.
    Space Age design by Pierre Cardin.
    Pagoda shoulder design by Pierre Cardin.
    Today is important!
    Introducing the Sculptures Utilitaires Cobra Table and Chair.

    Space Age Phallus.

    French fashion designer Pierre Cardin was one of the most influential designers of the 1960. He worked with Jeanne Paquin, Elsa Schiaparelli and Christian Dior before he opened his own studio in 1950 and quickly gained a following. Legend has it that Christian Dior would even send his overflow clients to him.

    In the beginning of his career Cardin would design pieces that accentuated a woman’s figure. Samples of that imd can be seen in Jean Cocteau’s film La belle at la bête for which Cardin was commissioned the costumes in 1945.

    However, Cardin is most well known for his contribution to the Space Age era in the 1960s: geometric silhouettes, technoid materials such as vinyl, and accessories that often included goggles and helmets.

    Looking back, Cardin’s biggest contribution to the world of fashion may have been the way he handled its business side. He was the designer to take licensing to a whole new level, forever changing the retail market. Overstretching it somehow in the 1980s when umbrellas, glasses, lighters and even socks in the bargain bins of drugstores and small town department stores.

    Pour Monsieur was Cardin’s first fragrance launch. Apparently a conventional aromatic fougere with its citrusy, balsamic, and powdery notes, there’s a wealth of spice, gourmand and floral notes to discover hat give the fragrance depth and complexity. The bottle — well the bottle basically a space age phallus that leaves little to imagination.

    Top Notes: Lemon, Bergamot, Orange, Lavender, Basil
    Middle Notes: Carnation, Geranium, Leather, Sandalwood, Patchouli, Orris
    Base Notes: Vanilla, Moss, Tonka Bean, Leather, Benzoin, Amber

    Launched: 1972
    Category: maskulin
    Availability: in production

  • 1972, À la Mode, Amber, Basil, Benzoin, Bergamot, Carnation, Christian Dior, Elsa Schiaparelli, Geranium, Jean Cocteau, Jeanne Paquin, Lavender, Leather, Lemon, Moss, Orange, Orris, Paris, Patchouli, Pierre Cardin, Pour Monsieur / Pierre Cardin, Sandalwood, Space Age, Tonka Bean, Top 10 Designer Scents, Vanilla

  • Posted: July 08, 2014

    Untitled by Martin Margiela, 2010.
    Untitled by Martin Margiela, 2010.
    Perfumer: Daniela Andrier
    Untitled by Martin Margiela, 2010.
    Martin Margiela, circa 1997.
    Untitled by Martin Margiela, 2010.
    From the first collection, 1989.
    Maison Martin Margiela ad spring/summer 2012.

    “Margiela has left the Business.”

    The debut fragrance of Maison Martin Margiela was launched shortly after main stake holder Renzo Rosso (Diesel) had announced: “Margiela has left the Business”, in December 2009. This led to many discussions if and how Martin Margiela had been involved in the development of the scent. Insiders claimed he had actively taken part in the process. Others doubted this because the creation “wasn’t edgy enough”.

    Martin Margiela, who hasn’t been photographed since 1997, graduated from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp, Belgium — the same talent factory that produced luminaries such as Ann Demeulemeester, Dirk Bikkembergs and Dries van Noten. Revolting against the superficiality of the fashion world he introduced his concept of deconstruction in his first collection in 1989.

    The name of the fragrance, Untitled, refers to the anonymous labels made from off-white pieces of ribbon sewn inside his garments. Untitled evokes aromas of greenery after rain. Its green and smoky accords give it a dense, floral warmth.

    The label Maison Martin Margiela challenged the very laws of fashion but ended up as part of a lifestyle brand portfolio. Whether Untitled it’s part of the first chapter or anticipates the beginning of the second is highly controversial. However, it is ardently loved by many and regarded as a beautiful contemporary take on the theme of green scents.

    Top Notes: Bitter Orange, Galbanum, Boxwood
    Middle Notes: Mastix, Jasmine
    Base Notes: Musk, Cedar, Incense

    Launched: 2010
    Category: unisex
    Perfumer: Daniela Andrier
    Bottle Designer: Fabien Baron
    Availability: in production

  • 2010, À la Mode, Ann Demeulemeester, Antwerp, Bitter Orange, Boxwood, Cedar, Daniela Andrier, Diesel, Dik Bikkembergs, Dries van Noten, Fabien Baron, Fashion, Fashion Designer, Galbanum, Incense, Jasmine, Maison Martin Margiela, Martin Margiela, Mastix, Musk, Rosso Rosso, Top 10 Designer Scents, Untitled / Maison Martin Margiela

  • Posted: July 07, 2014

    Jil Sander No. 4 by Jil Sander, 1990.
    Jil Sander No. 4 by Jil Sander, 1990.
    Perfumer: Michel Almairac.
    Jil Sander No. 4 by Jil Sander, 1990.
    Vintage ad from French Vogue, 1978.
    Tatjana Patitz for Jil Sander No. 4.
    Jil Sander fall 2014 campaign.
    Timeless Jil Sander.

    Elegant opulence from the Queen of Less.

    Jil Sander’s most famous scent is not the fresh and clean Eau de Cologne you might expect from the Queen of Less but an opulent and elegant spicy floriental. Fruity notes of plum and peach in combination with spicy ingredients such as Anise, Nutmeg and Coriander exude the confidence of a woman who is in charge.

    Which brings us back to Heidemarie Jiline “Jil” Sander, the epitome of the Hanseatic, understated lifestyle of her hometown, Hamburg. She founded her own fashion house in 1968 and built a brand with an international reputation — sold it to the Prada Group in 1999, resigned and returned twice as a designer and left it for good in 2013 to care for her life companion who was suffering from cancer. A design legend and a woman with strong convictions in business and life who hardly ever gives interviews and rarely appears in public.

    Top Notes: Geranium, Peach, Plum, Bergamot, Anise
    Middle Notes: Rose, Violet, Jasmine, Tuberose, Heliotrope, Ylang Ylang, Tarragon, Myrrh, Nutmeg
    Base Notes: Amber, Sandalwood, Oakmoss, Patchouli, Vanilla, Musk, Coriander, Civet, Tonka Bean

    Launched: 1990
    Category: feminine
    Perfumer: Michel Almairac
    Bottle Designer: Peter Schmidt
    Availability: in production

  • 1990, À la Mode, Amber, Anise, Bergamot, Civet, Coriander, Fashion, Fashion Designer, Geranium, Hamburg, Heliotrope, Jasmine, jil, Jil Sander, Jil Sander No. 4 / Jil Sander, Michel Almairac, Musk, Myrrh, Nutmeg, Oakmoss, Patchouli, Peach, Peter Schmidt, Plum, Rose, Sandalwood, Tarragon, Tatjana Patitz, Tonka Bean, Top 10 Designer Scents, Tuberose, Vanilla, Violet, Vogue, Ylang Ylang

  • Posted: July 07, 2014

    Joy by Jean Patou, 1930.
    Joy by Jean Patou, 1930.
    Perfumer: Henri Alméras.
    Joy by Jean Patou, 1930.
    Jean Patou, 1880 – 1936.
    Johnny Weissmuller in swimwear by Jean Patou, 1928.
    Jean Patou Collection, 1966. Elsa Schiaparelli, 1945.
    Joy by Jean Patou.

    The costliest perfume in the world.

    Jean Patou was one of the early brand geniuses in the fashion industry. During the great stock market crash of 1929 many of Jean Patou’s clients were driven into insolvency. Patou hat the smashing idea to create a luxury perfume to counteract the blues of depression.

    The scent was labeled “The costliest Perfume in the World” and was gifted to the 250 wealthiest Americans. The brand survived the crisis only through the perfumes sales.

    This intoxicating fragrance combines exquisite floral essences in an unheard of concentration: Over 10,000 jasmine blossoms and 28 dozen roses are required to prepare 30 ml of this fragrance. It is the second best selling perfume of all time, right behind Chanel No. 5.

    Top Notes: Aldehydes, Peach, Leafy Green
    Middle Notes: Jasmine, Rose, Ylang Ylang, Tuberose
    Base Notes: Sandalwood, Musk, Civet

    Launched: 1930
    Category: feminine
    Perfumer: Henri Alméras
    Bottle Designer: Louis Sue
    Availability: in production

  • 1930, À la Mode, Aldehydes, Chanel, Chanel No. 5 / Chanel, Civet, Fashion, Fashion Designer, Henri Alméras, Jasmine, Jean Patou, Joy / Jean Patou, Leafy Green, Louis Sue, Musk, Peach, Rose, Sandalwood, Top 10 Designer Scents, Tuberose, Ylang Ylang

  • Posted: July 02, 2014

    Elsa Schiaparelli.
    Elsa Schiaparelli.
    Photo by George Hoynignen-Huene, 1932. © Condé Nast Via: www.architecturaldigest.com
    Elsa Schiaparelli.
    Shocking! by ElsaSchiaparelli, 1936.
    Marisa Berenson (*1947).
    Sleeping by Elsa Schiaparelli, 1945.
    The Skeleton Dress, by Elsa Schiaparelli and Salvador Dali, 1938.

    The woman who slapped Paris.

    Yves Saint Laurent, said about his mentor and colleague: “She slapped Paris. She smacked it. She tortured it. She bewitched it. And it fell madly love with her.”

    Italian-born Elsa Schiaparelli (1890 – 1973) is regarded as one of the most important figures in fashion between the two World Wars — along with Coco Chanel, her greatest rival.

    Her designs were heavily influenced by artists like Jean Cocteau and Alberto Giacometti. With Salvador Dali she co-created her famous Skeleton Dress in 1938, a piece Lady Gaga would probably kill for.

    Schiaparelli’s clients included the Duchess of Windsor and movie stars such as Katherine Hepburn, Mae West and Marlene Dietrich.

    Her perfumes were famous for their unusual packaging and bottles. Shocking! (1936) came in a bottle in the shape of a woman’s torso inspired by Mae West’s tailor’s dummy. The bottle has clearly been the blue print for Jean Paul Gaultier’s Le Male almost 60 years later. Other perfumes included: Salut (1934), Souci (1934), Schiap (1934), Sleeping (1938) and Snuff (1939), her first fragrance for men.

    Elsa Schiaparelli is the grandmother of actress and 70s super model Marisa Berenson (Barry Lyndon) and photographer Berry Berenson who was married to Anthony Perkins (Psycho) and died in the September 11 attacks as a passenger on American Airlines Flight 11.

  • 1934, 1936, 1938, 1939, À la Mode, Alberto Giacometti, Anthony Perkins, Berry Berenson, Coco Chanel, Duchess of Windsor, Elsa Schiaparelli, Fashion, Fashion Designer, Jean Cocteau, Jean Paul Gaultier, Katherine Hepburn, Lady Gaga, Le Male / Jean Paul Gaultier, Mae West, Marisa Berenson, Marlene Dietrich, Paris, Salut / Elsa Schiaparelli, Salvador Dali, Schiap / Elsa Schiaparelli, Schiaparelli, Shocking! / Elsa Schiaparelli, Sleeping / Elsa Schiaparelli, Snuff / Elsa Schiaparelli, Souci / Elsa Schiaparelli, Yves Saint Laurent

  • Posted: June 20, 2014

    Toujours Moi & Orchidée Bleue, Corday.
    Toujours Moi & Orchidée Bleue, Corday.
    Vintage Ad, 1933.
    Toujours Moi & Orchidée Bleue, Corday.

    The power of perfume in a nutshell.

    As you know, SCENTURY is all about perfume storytelling. It will come as no surprise to you to hear that we just love this vintage ad by Corday from 1933 for Toujours Moi and Orchidée Bleue. It tells the same old story of perfume’s power of seduction — in just one sentence. Go for it, girl!

  • Corday, New York, Orchidée Bleue / Corday, Paris, Toujours Moi / Corday, Vintage Ad

  • Posted: June 11, 2014


    Image: 20first.

    Perfume quote by Jarod Kintz.

  • Jarod Kintz, Perfume Quote

  • Posted: May 22, 2014

    Bois des Iles by Chanel, 1926.
    Bois des Iles by Chanel, 1926.
    Vintage Ad, 1920s.
    Bois des Iles by Chanel, 1926.

    An ageless beauty after more than 80 years.

    This strikingly tasteful and minimalistic vintage ad from the 1920s selected Chanel’s latest perfume launch Bois des Iles to promote the brand’s fragrance range. The liquid was designed by Ernest Beaux, Coco Chanel’s mastermind behind No. 5, in 1926. Bois des Iles allegedly was the first woody fragrance for women, It certainly works beautifully as a unisex scent. Prominent notes are sandalwood, vetiver, tonka bean, vanilla, ylang ylang, iris, coriander, rose, jasmine and aldehydes.

    Perfume critic Luca Turin gave this one score of five stars and called it: “Basically perfect!”

  • 1926, Aldehydes, Bois des Iles / Chanel, Chanel, Chanel No. 5 / Chanel, Coco Chanel, Coriander, Ernest Beaux, Iris, Jasmine, Luca Turin, Rose, Sandalwood, Tonka Bean, Vanilla, Vetiver, Ylang Ylang

  • Posted: May 18, 2014

    Elizabeth Taylor as Cleopatra, Bert Stern, 1962
    Elizabeth Taylor as Cleopatra, Bert Stern, 1962
    Original photo via: www.scorpiondisco.com
    Elizabeth Taylor as Cleopatra, Bert Stern, 1962
    Elizabeth Taylor 1932 – 2011.
    Elizabeth Taylor, introducing White Diamonds, 1991.
    Elizabeth Taylor and friend(s).
    Elizabeth Taylor promoting White Diamonds.

    Diamonds are forever, forever, forever.

    Elizabeth Taylor was a woman of many passions: Richard Burton (married him twice), Oscars (won it twice), Diamonds (owned tons of it), little dogs and big hair — to name just a few.

    What even many perfume lovers don’t know: Her perfume White Diamonds is still the best selling celebrity fragrance of all times and the manufacturer Elizabeth Arden is still making millions with it. The perfume was launched at the Marshall Field & Co department store in New York in 1991 and sold for $200 an ounce. A private tea with the actress was on offer to the first 150 customers who bought a $300-an-ounce limited edition. Over the years, 13 different perfumes have been launched under Elizabeth Taylors name, some of them today being discontinued.

    The actress once said: “Perfume is more than just an accessory for a woman. It’s part of her aura. I wear it even when I’m alone.”

  • 1991, À la Mode, Actress, Celebrity Perfume, Elizabeth Arden, Elizabeth Taylor, Le Cinéma Olfactif, New York, Oscar, Richard Burton, White Diamonds / Elizabeth Taylor

  • Posted: May 10, 2014

    Macho Musk Oil by Fabergé.
    Macho Musk Oil by Fabergé.
    Vintage perfume ad. Via: www.tienda.murlana.es
    Macho Musk Oil by Fabergé.
    Macho by Fabergé, 1976.

    It’s b-a-a-a-a-d. And that’s good.

    A perfume called Macho in a bottle shaped like a dick! You may call this cheeky or you might even call it sexist, though back in the days this might have passed as a compliment. The name, the bottle, the citrusy scent of spice, herbs and lavender—a source of confidence for aspiring machos. The message didn’t really get across in the smaller 50ml version with the tiny bottle, though …

  • 1976, Fabergé, Macho / Fabergé, Vintage Ad

  • Posted: May 04, 2014


    Image: 20first.

    Perfume quote by Toba Beta.

  • Perfume Quote, Toba Beta

  • Posted: April 28, 2014

    Marlene Dietrich, 1901 – 1992.
    Marlene Dietrich, 1901 – 1992.
    Publicity photo. Via: www.puettner.com
    Marlene Dietrich, 1901 – 1992.
    Barbara Stanwyck, 1907 – 1990.
    Greta Garbo, 1905 – 1990.
    Ava Gardner, 1922 – 1990.
    Jean Harlow, 1911 – 1937.
    Dorothee Dandridge, 1922 – 1965.

    The Scent of a Woman.

    “Charisma is the fragrance of soul.” If this quote by Toba Beta was true there would be no need for a real movie star to use perfume at all. However, the ladies listed below didn’t really mind.

    01. Lauren Bacall / Calandre by Paco Rabanne, 1969

    02. Claudia Cardinale / L’Air du Temps by Nina Ricci, 1948

    03. Dorothy Dandridge / Tabu by Dana, 1932

    04. Olivia de Havilland / Joy by Jean Patou, 1930

    05. Bo Derek / DNA by Bijan, 1993

    06. Angie Dickinson / Eau d’Hermès by Hermès, 1951

    07. Marlene Dietrich / Angelique Encens by Creed, 1933

    08. Faye Dunaway / Norell by Revlon, 1968

    09. Audrey Hepburn / L’Interdit by Givenchy, 1957

    10. Greta Garbo / Vent Vert by Pierre Balmain, 1947

    11. Ava Gardner / Acqua di Parma Colonia by Acqua di Parma, 1916

    12. Judy Garland / My Griffe by Carven, 1946

    13. Jean Harlow / Mitsouko by Guerlain, 1919

    14. Rita Hayworth / Replique by Raphael, 1944

    15. Katherine Hepburn / Rive Gauche by Yves Saint Laurent, 1971

    16. Vivian Leigh / Joy by Jean Patou, 1930

    17. Ali Mac Graw / Wild Fern Oil by Florence Gunnarson

    18. Jayne Mansfield / My Sin by Lanvin, 1924

    19. Marilyn Monroe / Chanel No. 5 by Chanel, 1921

    20. Mary Pickford / Crepe de Chine by F. Millot, 1925

    21. Barbara Stanwyck / Jungle Gardenia by Tuvaché, 1933

    22. Gloria Swanson / Youth Dew by Estee Lauder, 1953

    23. Elizabeth Taylor / Bal A Versailles by Jean Desprez, 1962

    24. Lana Turner / Tuberose by Mary Chess, 1937

    25. Mae West / Shocking by Schiaparelli, 1937

  • Acqua di Parma, Acqua di Parma Colonia / Acqua di Parma, Actress, Ali Mac Graw, Angelique Encens / Creed, Angie Dickinson, Audrey Hepburn, Ava Gardner, Bal à Versailles / Jean Desprez, Barbara Stanwyck, Bijan, Bo Derek, Calandre / Paco Rabanne, Carven, Chanel, Chanel No. 5 / Chanel, Claudia Cardinale, Creed, Crepe de Chine / F. Millot, Dana, DNA / Bijan, Dorothy Dandridge, Eau d’Hermès / Hermès, Elizabeth Taylor, Estée Lauder, F. Millot, Faye Dunaway, Florence Gunnarson, Givenchy, Gloria Swanson, Greta Garbo, Guerlain, Hermès, Hollywood, Jayne Mansfield, Jean Desprez, Jean Harlow, Jean Patou, Joy / Jean Patou, Judy Garland, Jungle Gardenia / Tuvaché, Katherine Hepburn, Lana Turner, Lanvin, Lauren Bacall, Le Cinéma Olfactif, L’Air du Temps / Nina Ricci, L’Interdit / Givenchy, Mae West, Marilyn Monroe, Marlene Dietrich, Mary Chess, Mary Pickford, Mitsouko / Guerlain, Movie, My Griffe / Carven, My Sin / Lanvin, Norell / Revlon, Olivia de Havilland, Pierre Balmain, Raphael, Réplique / Raphael, Revlon, Rita Hayworth, Rive Gauche / Yves Saint Laurent, Schiaparelli, Shocking / Schiaparelli, Tabu / Dana, Tuberose / Mary Chess, Tuvaché, Vent Vert / Pierre Balmain, Vivian Leigh, Wild Fern Oil / Florence Gunnarson, Youth Dew / Estée Lauder, Yves Saint Laurent

  • Posted: April 25, 2014

    Harrison Ford, *1942.
    Harrison Ford, *1942.
    Signed publicity photo. Via: www.autographmagazine.com
    Harrison Ford, *1942.
    Burt Reynolds, *1936.
    Gary Cooper, 1901 – 1961.
    Paul Newman, 1925 – 2008.
    David Niven, 1910 – 1983.
    Charls Boyer, 1899 – 1978.

    The Scent of a Male.

    The American writer Elbert Green Hubbard (1856 – 1915) once shared his definition of perfume: “Any smell that is used to drown a worse one.” We’re sure that each and every one of the gentlemen listed below smell perfectly charming even without perfume and that there is no need to cover or drown anything. However, don’t miss our sneak peek into the bathroom cabinet of these icons to find out about their favorite perfumes.

    01. Alec Baldwin / Habit Rouge by Guerlain, 1965

    02. Charles Boyer / Chypre de Coty by Coty, 1917

    03. Charlie Chaplin / Mitsouko by Guerlain, 1919

    04. Sean Connery / Jicky by Guerlain, 1889

    05. Gary Cooper / Epicéa by Creed, 1965

    06. James Dean / Knize Ten by Knize, 1924

    07. Leonardo Di Caprio / Eau d’Hadrien by Annick Goutal, 1981

    08. Kirk Douglas / Eau du Coq by Guerlain, 1894

    09. Clint Eastwood / Green Irish Tweed by Creed, 1985

    10. Harrison Ford / Vetiver by Guerlain, 1961

    11. Clark Gable / Chypre de Coty by Coty, 1917

    12. Andy Garcia / Vetiver by Guerlain, 1961

    13. Alec Guiness: Eau de Cologne Impériale by Guerlain, 1853

    14. Hugh Jackman / Timbuktu by L’Artisan Parfumeur, 2004

    15. Roger Moore / Jicky by Guerlain, 1889

    16. Paul Newman / Bois de Portugal by Creed, 1987

    17. David Niven / Knize Ten by Knize, 1924

    18. Philippe Noiret / Eau d’Hadrien by Annick Goutal, 1981

    19. Clive Owen / Chanel pour Monsieur by Chanel, 1955

    20. Sean Penn / Erolfa by Creed, 1992

    21. Ronald Reagan / Eau de Cologne Impériale by Guerlain, 1853

    22. Burt Reynolds / Gendarme by Gendarme, 1991

    23. Cary Grant / Acqua di Parma Colonia by Acqua di Parma, 1916

    24. Peter Sellers / Vetiver by Guerlain, 1961

    25. Sylvester Stallone / Bijan for Men by Bijan, 1981

  • Acqua di Parma, Acqua di Parma Colonia / Acqua di Parma, Actor, Alec Baldwin, Alec Guiness, Andy Garcia, Annick Goutal, Bijan, Bijan for Men / Bijan, Bois de Portugal / Creed, Burt Reynolds, Cary Grant, Chanel, Chanel pour Monsieur / Chanel, Charles Boyer, Charlie Chaplin, Chypre de Coty / Coty, Clark Gable, Clint Eastwood, Clive Owen, Coty, Creed, David Niven, Eau de Cologne Impériale / Guerlain, Eau du Coq / Guerlain, Eau d’Hadrien / Annick Goutal, Epicèa / Creed, Erolfa / Creed, Gary Cooper, Gendarme, Gendarme / Gendarme, Green Irish Tweed / Creed, Guerlain, Harrison Ford, Hugh Jackman, James Dean, Jicky / Guerlain, Kirk Douglas, Knize, Knize Ten / Knize, Le Cinéma Olfactif, Leonard Di Caprio, L’Artisan Parfumeur, Mitsouko / Guerlain, Movie, Paul Newman, Peter Sellers, Philippe Noiret, Roger Moore, Ronald Reagan, Sean Connery, Sean Penn, Sylvester Stallone, Timbuktu / L’Artisan Parfumeur, Vetiver / Guerlain

  • Posted: April 16, 2014

    Catherine Deneuve for Chanel No. 5
    Catherine Deneuve for Chanel No. 5
    Vintage ad, 1978. Via: www.jadoredeneuve.com
    Catherine Deneuve for Chanel No. 5
    Catherine Deneuve for Chanel No. 5
    Catherine Deneuve for Chanel No. 5
    Catherine Deneuve for Chanel No. 5
    Catherine Deneuve for Chanel No. 5

    The face of Chanel No. 5.

    This will eat your heart out, Brad Pitt: More than 30 years after the end of her love affair with Chanel No. 5, Catherine Deneuve is still remembered as THE face and body of this perfumery icon. At a time when Chanel No. 5 hit a low point in sales and when the fragrance wasn’t exactly considered le dernier cri by the younger generation, the company hired “Catherine National”, an international epitome of style and beauty, a celebrated actress and: the face of Marianne, the personification of France, her portrait bust presiding over town halls nationwide. Deneuve was Chanel’s testimonial for almost one decade. A couple of years after the end of the liaison, in 1986, a fragrance under her name was launched by Avon that was discontinued after a rather modest success. Maud Adams, Carole Bouquet, Nicole Kidman, Audrey Tautou, Brad Pitt … None of the other testimonials for Chanel No. 5 has left a stronger footprint in the collective unconscious or has been able to outshine the glamour of the power couple Deneuve & No.5.

    “I’m often lonely in public. Especially when people expect me to be what I’m not. But I’m never lonely when I’m alone. Because I can be myself. I can daydream all night, or read a book. And eat candies. It’s very precious, this time. It goes to my head. Like Chanel No. 5 spray perfume and spray cologne. Chanel: It’s one of the pleasures of being a woman.”

    Catherine Deneuve in a TV commercial for Chanel No. 5, 1978.

    Chanel No. 5 commercial, 1978.

  • Actor, Audrey Tautou, Avon, Brad Pitt, Carole Bouquet, Catherine Deneuve, Chanel, Chanel No. 5 / Chanel, Deneuve / Avon, Le Cinéma Olfactif, Maud Adams, Movie, Nicole Kidman

  • Posted: April 11, 2014

    Cinéma by Yves Saint Laurent, 2004.
    Cinéma by Yves Saint Laurent, 2004.
    Vintage ad.
    Cinéma by Yves Saint Laurent, 2004.
    Yves Saint Laurent, ca. 1951.
    Yves Saint Laurent, 2014.

    Larger than life.

    In 2004 Yves Saint Laurent launched Cinéma, created by star perfumer Jacques Cavallier (Firmenich). The inspiration for Cinéma and its follow up Cinéma Festival d’Eté (2007) is the love affair that France has been entertaining with the silver screen for more than a century. Ten years later, in 2014, the biopic Yves Saint Laurent tells the life story of one of the most influential designers in the history of fashion, starting at the beginning of his career in 1958 when he met his lover and business partner, Pierre Berger.

  • À la Mode, Cinéma / Yves Saint Laurent, Cinéma Festival d’Eté / Yves Saint Laurent, Fashion, Fashion Designer, Firmenich, Jacques Cavallier, Le Cinéma Olfactif, Movie, Yves Berger, Yves Saint Laurent

  • Posted: April 11, 2014

    Alain Delon in Le Samouraï, 1967.
    Alain Delon in Le Samouraï, 1967.
    Movie still. Via: www.mubi.com
    Alain Delon in Le Samouraï, 1967.
    Le Temps d’Aimer by Parfums Alain Delon, 1981.
    Comme au Cinéma, Alain Delon, 1987.

    Actor turns perfume brand turns singer.

    In 1980 Alain Delon introduced his first Signature Scent AD. Since then, Parfums Alain Delon has launched the unbelievable number of 54 scents. The Samouraï line (Samouraï Air, Samouraï Bronze, Samouraï Woman Love among others) refers to the movie Le Samouraï from 1967 by Jean-Pierre Melville — arguably Delon’s best performance as an actor.

    Comme au Cinéma, Alain Delon, 1987.

  • Actor, AD / Parfums Alain Delon, Alain Delon, Jean-Pierre Melville, Le Cinéma Olfactif, Le Temps d’Aimer / Parfums Alain Delon, Movie, Parfums Alain Delon, Samouraï Air / Parfums Alain Delon, Samouraï Bronze / Parfums Alain Delon, Samouraï Woman Love / Parfums Alain Delon, Vintage Ad

  • Posted: April 11, 2014

    A Smell of Honey, a Swallow of Brine, 1966.
    A Smell of Honey, a Swallow of Brine, 1966.
    Movie poster. Via: www.wrongsideoftheart.com
    A Smell of Honey, a Swallow of Brine, 1966.
    Sweet Smell of Success, 1951.
    Sweet Smell of Success, 1951.
    Filmed in Smell-O-Vision!
    Profumo di Donna (Scent of a Woman), 1974.
    Il profumo della Signora in Nero, 1974.

    Remember Smell-O-Vison?

    “Sometimes you wear L’Air du Temps but not today!”
    Hannibal Lector (Anthony Hopkins) to Clarice Starling (Jodie Foster) when she vistas him in prison.

    01. A Smell of Honey, a Swallow of Brine by Byron Mabe, 1966.
    Stacey Walker, Sam Melville, Bob Todd, Sharon Carr
    www.youtube.com

    02. Il profumo della Signora in Nero by Francesco Barilli, 1974.
    Mimsy Farmer, Maurizio Bonuglia, Aldo Valletti, Mario Scaccia …
    www.youtube.com

    03. Le parfum d’Yvonne by Patrice Leconte, 1994.
    Jean-Pierre Marielle, Hippolyte Girardot, Sandra Extercatte, Richard Bohringer …
    www.youtube.com

    04. Malaki: Scent of an Angel by Kahlil Dreifus Zaarour, 2011.
    Sonia Eid, Anjad El Moallem, Fatima El Zayyat, Maguy Adriotti …
    www.malakithemovie.com

    05. Maria Bethania: Musica e Perfume by Georges Gachot, 2008.
    Maria Bethania, Nana Caymmi, Caetano Veloso, Gilberto Gil …
    www.youtube.com

    06. Miris poljskog cveca (Fragrance of Wild Flowers) by Srdjan Karanovic, 1977.
    Ljuba Tadic, Aleksandar Bercek, Olga Spiridonovic, Sonja Divac …
    www.dailymotion.com

    07. Mùi du du xanh — L’odeur de la Papaye Verte by Anh Hung Tran, 1993.
    Tran Nu Yên-Khê, Man San Lu, Thi Loc Truong, Anh Hoa Nguyen …
    www.youtube.com

    08. Nadie Te Oye: Perfume de Violetas by Marisa Sistach, 2004.
    Ximena Ayala, Nancy Gutierrez, Arcelia Ramirez, Maria Rojo …
    www.youtube.com

    09. Perfume by Michael Rymer, 2001.
    Joanne Baron, Angela Bettis, Sonia Braga, Carmen Electra …
    www.youtube.com

    10. Perfume: The Story of a Murderer by Tom Tykwer, 2006.
    Ben Whishaw, Dustin Hoffman, Karoline Herfurth, Alan Rickman …
    www.youtube.com

    11. Profumo di Donna (Scent of a Woman) by Dino Risi, 1974.
    Vittorio Gassman, Agostina Belli, Alessandro Momo, Moira Orfei …
    www.youtube.com

    12. Scents and Sensibility by Brian Brough, 2011.
    Ashley Williams, Marla Sokoloff, Nick Zano, Brad Johnson …
    www.youtube.com

    13. Scent of a Woman directed by Martin Brest, 1992.
    Al Pacino, Chris O’Donnell, James Rebhorn, Gabrielle Anwar, Philip Seymour Hoffman …
    www.youtube.com

    14. Scent of Murder by Peter Svatek, 2002.
    Sherilyn Fenn, Emma Campbell, Costas Mandylor, James McGowan …
    www.imdb.com

    15. Scent of Mystery by Jack Cardiff, 1960 — filmed in Smell-O-Vision.
    Denholm Elliott, Peter Lorre, Beverly Bentley, Elizabeth Taylor …
    www.youtube.com

    16. Shams & Rumi: The Fragrance of Axis Mundi by Pouria Montazeri, 2006.
    Tom E. Mason, Andrew Newell, Nicolas Crisafulli, Sarkaut Taro …
    www.vimeo.com

    17. Smell of Camphor, Fragrance of Jasmine by Bahman Farmanara, 2000.
    Bahman Farmanara, Roya Nonahali, Reza Kianian, Vali Shirandamami …
    www.youtube.com

    18. Sweet Smell of Success by Alexander Mackendrick, 1951.
    Burt Lancaster, Tony Curtis, Susan Harrison, Martin Milner
    www.rogerebert.com

    19. The Smell of Success by Michael Polish, 2009.
    Billy Bob Thornton, Téa Leoni, Mark Polish, Kyle MacLachlan …
    www.youtube.com

    20. Women From the Lake of Scented Souls by Xie Fei 1993.
    Gaowa Siqin, Wu Yujian, Wu Yujuan, Lei Luosheng
    www.asiapacificfilms.com

  • Actor, Al Pacino, Anthony Hopkins, Burt Lancaster, Byron Mabe, Elizabeth Taylor, Jodie Foster, Le Cinéma Olfactif, Movie, Movie Titles, Patrice Leconte, Philipp Seymour Hoffmann, Toni Curtis, Vittorio Gassman

  • Posted: April 08, 2014


    Image: 20first.
    Fernando Pessoa (1888 – 1935).

    Perfume quote by Fernando Pessoa.

  • Fernando Pessoa, Perfume Quote, The Doors

  • Posted: April 02, 2014

    Cherry blossoms.
    Cherry blossoms.
    Woodblock print, Imao Keinen (1845 – 1924). Via: www.fujiarts.com
    Cherry blossoms.
    Apple blossoms.
    Wisteria.
    Plum blossoms.
    Cherry blossoms.

    The name is the message!

    “The air soft as that of Seville in April, and so fragrant that it was delicious to breathe it.” Christopher Columbus (1451 – 1506)

    01. Abril by Victorio & Lucchino, (1994)

    02. April 2nd by Anfasic Dokhoon

    03. April Be Spring by DSH Perfumes (2006)

    04. April Fields by Coty (1991)

    05. April Showers by Cheramy

    06. Belle d’Avril by Fragonard (2011)

    07. En Avril Un Soir by Yves Rocher (1976)

    08. Folavril by Annick Goutal (1981)

    09. April Forever by Panouge

    10. April Violets by Yardley (1913)

    11. Avril en Fleurs by Guerlain (1905)

    12. Nectar of Love by April Aromatics (2012)

    13. Passionflower Perfume Poems April by DSH Perfumes (2000)

    14. T.S. Eliot – April Is The Cruelest Month by Possets (2013)

    15. Unter den Linden by April Aromatics (2012)

  • Abril / Victorio & Lucchino, Anfasic Dokhoon, Annick Goutal, April, April 2nd / Anfasic Dokhoon, April Aromatics, April Be Spring / DSH Perfumes, April Fields / Coty, April Forever / Panouge, April Showers / Cheramy, April Violets / Yardley, Avril en Fleurs / Guerlain, Belle d’Avril / Fragonard, Cheramy, Cherry Blossom, Christopher Columbus, Coty, Dawn Spencer Hurwitz, DSH Perfumes, En Avril un Soir / Yves Rocher, Folavril / Annick Goutal, Fragonard, Guerlain, Nectar of Love / April Aromatics, Panouge, Passionflower Perfume Poems April / DSH Perfumes, Perfume Names, Plum Blossom, Possets, Spring, T.S. Eliot, T.S. Eliot – April Is The Cruelest Month / Possets, Unter den Linden / April Aromatics, Victorio & Lucchino, Wisteria, Yardley, Yves Rocher

  • Posted: March 25, 2014

    Mickey is also a Rat Skull, Nicolas Rubinstein, 2006.
    Mickey is also a Rat Skull, Nicolas Rubinstein, 2006.
    Photo by Jean Bernard. Via: www.schloss-gottorf.de
    Mickey is also a Rat Skull, Nicolas Rubinstein, 2006.
    Session Victim: Hauke Freer, Matthias Reiling.
    Vanitas still life, ca. 1700.
    Viridian Leaf Green Chocolate Skull, Damien Hirst, 2012
    Antique ancestral skull from Borneo.
    The Haunted House of House, Session Victim, 2012.

    When scent meets sound!

    Light Scent of Decay is a track from the 2012 debut album The Haunted House of House by Berlin-based duo Session Victim. The name of the song reminded us of Vanitas still lives by Flemish masters or morbid rituals practiced by exotic tribes. And yes: Decay does have a smell which in small doses and the right combination can be disturbingly appealing — as long you’re not told what it is, of course. Show more

    Check out the sound of Hauke Freer and Matthias Reiling a.k.a. Session Victim: a wide array of styles and genres merged into a bouquet of quality laden house grooves.

    Session Victim: Light Scent of Decay.

  • Berlin, Borneo, Damian Hirst, Hauke Free, House Music, Matthias Reiling, Musician, Nikolas Rubinstein, Session Victim

  • Posted: March 17, 2014

    Rodeo Drive, 1984.
    Rodeo Drive, 1984.
    Photo by Anthony Hernandez. Via: www.vintag.es
    Rodeo Drive, 1984.
    The life of Beverly Hills!
    Rodeo Drive, 1984.
    Sweating style!
    The bright side of life.
    Don’t mess with me!
    Rodeo Drive, 1984.

    Rodeo Drive 1984 captured by Giorgio and the stunning photography of Anthony Hernandez.

    America’s version of an 80s power house perfume. Giorgio by Giorgio Beverly Hills is the signature scent of Rodeo Drive’s most famous boutique. It was launched in 1981 and was was kept exclusive to the boutique’s clients but consumer demand was huge and in 1984 the fragrance was launched nationwide. The fragrance was advertised in Vogue with a scent strip — a marketing device not used before. The response was immense and orders came flooding in. The 1980s and Rodeo Drive — a perfect partnership of luxurious consumerist excess. It was exactly this which inspired photographer Anthony Hernandez to take pictures of the iconic shopping district, resulting in a collection of photographs now showcased in a glorious book Rodeo Drive, 1984 (MACK books).

  • 1984, À la Mode, Alexis Carrington Colby, Anthony Hernandez, Beverly Hills, Giorgio / Giorgio Beverly Hills, Giorgio Beverly Hills, Joan Collins, Los Angeles, Power House, Rodeo Drive, Vintage Ad

  • Posted: March 13, 2014

    The season of love!
    The season of love!
    Collage: 20first.
    The season of love!

    25 spring-inspired perfume names.

    “In the spring, at the end of the day, you should smell like dirt.” Margaret Atwood (*1939)

    01. April Be Spring by DSH Perfumes (2006)

    02. Amalia Primavera by Fuegia (2012)

    03. Aqaba Spring by Miriam Mirani (1998)

    04. Beautiful Spring Veil by Estée Lauder (2009)

    05. Déjà Le Printemps by Oriza L. Legrand (2012)

    06. D’Yvonne Printemps by Isabey (1929)

    07. English Spring Flowers by Yardley (1990)

    08. Euphoria Spring Temptation by Calvin Klein (2009)

    09. Féerie Spring Blossom by Van Cleef & Arpels (2013)

    10. L’Air du Printemps by Nina Ricci (2009)

    11. La Saisons: Printemps by Van Cleef & Arpels (2004)

    12. Les 4 Saisons – Printemps by Micallef (2003)

    13. Mughetto de Primavera by I Profumi di Firenze

    14. Printemps Japonais by Galimard (1960)

    15. Sanrio – Hello Kitty Spring by Demeter (2012)

    16. Sparkling Spring by TianDe

    17. Spring by Rich Hippie

    18. Spring Break by Demeter (2003)

    19. Spring Fancy by Prince Matchabelli (1955)

    20. Spring Fever by Origins (1995)

    21. Spring Fling by Creed (2002)

    22. Spring Flower by Creed (1996)

    23. Spring n’Summer by Elsa Schiaparelli (1956)

    24. Touch of Spring by Lacoste (2007)

    25. Vert Printemps by Pupa (1998)

  • Amalia Primavera / Fuegia, April Be Spring / DSH Perfumes, Aqaba Spring / Miriam Mirani, Beautiful Spring Veil / Estée Lauder, Calvin Klein, Creed, Déjà le Printemps / Oriza L. Legrand, Demeter, DSH Perfumes, D’Yvonne Printemps / Isabey, Elsa Schiaparelli, English Spring Flowers / Yardley, Estée Lauder, Euphoria Spring Temptation / Calvin Klein, Féerie Spring Blossom / Van Cleef & Arpels, Fuegia, Galimard, I Profumi di Firenze, Isabey, La Saisons: Printemps / Van Cleef & Arpels, Lacoste, Les 4 Saisons – Printemps / Micallef, L’Air du Printemps / Nina Ricci, Micallef, Miriam Mirani, Mughetto de Primavera / I Profumi di Firenze, Nina Ricci, Origins, Oriza L. Legrand, Paris, Perfume Names, Prince Matchabelli, Printemps Japonais / Galimard, Pupa, Rich Hippie, Sanrio – Hello Kitty Spring / Demeter, Sparkling Spring / TianDe, Spring, Spring / Rich Hippie, Spring Break / Demeter, Spring Fancy / Prince Matchabelli, Spring Fever / Origins, Spring Fling / Creed, Spring Flower / Creed, Spring n’Summer / Elsa Schiaparelli, TianDe, Touch of Spring / Lacoste, Vert Printemps / Pupa, Yardley

  • Posted: March 08, 2014

    Magnolia Grandiflora: Michel by Grandiflora.
    Magnolia Grandiflora: Michel by Grandiflora.
    Perfumer: Michel Roudnistka, 2014.
    Magnolia Grandiflora: Michel by Grandiflora.
    Zeitgeist by Schwarzlose.
    L’Olympia Music Hall by Histoires de Parfums.
    Holy Thistle by Union fragrances.
    Matsu by DSH Perfumes.

    I hear perfume: Smell this & listen to the music!

    Finally spring! We selected 5 scents to welcome the season — and picked 5 songs for a perfect match. Find out out more about Magnolia Grandiflora: Michel by Grandiflora, Zeitgeist by Schwarzlose, L’Olympia Music Hall by Histoires de Parfums, Holy Thistle by Union Fragrances, Matsu from DSH Perfumes and listen to Alberta Cross, Stan Getz, Paul Kalkbrenner, Jacqueline Taïeb, and The Beatles! Show more

    01. Magnolia Grandiflora: Michel by Grandiflora

    In early spring before even foliage appears, the buds of the magnolia tree stand proud and silvered in the branches with their downy cases catching the sunlight. Florist Saskia Havekes is a Rock Star florist from Sydney. She has recently started a perfume line and one of the first launches has been created by the illustrious French perfumer Michel Roudnitska. Starting with top notes of lemon, bergamot and grapefruit, the heart of the scent glows with jasmine, ylang-ylang, rose and of course magnolia.

    Magnolia by Alberta Cross.

    02. Zeitgeist by Schwarzlose

    A first hint of the things to come after a long and dark winter: This scent has been inspired by the ever-changing face of the city of Berlin. To create this conglomerate of sexiness and freshness perfumer Véronique Nyberg combined seeming contradictions like presence and elusiveness by using ingredients such as ambergris, calone and algae absolue to embody sexiness and wateriness, and a faceted musk-complex and leatherwood to embody permanent change and avant-garde. www.schwarzloseberlin.com

    Frühling by Paul Kalkbrenner.

    03. L’Olympia Music Hall by Histoires de Parfums

    This one is clearly on the warmer side of spring — late May rather than early March. It has been named after Paris’ most famous music hall, L’Olympia. And indeed, the city of light is especially beautiful during springtime: Le printemps, c’est Paris! The complex scent opens with fruity citrus notes, followed by Lilac, Rose, Freesia, Peony and spicy fruits on top of a woody, almost gourmand baseline. www.histoiresdeparfums.com

    Le printemps à Paris by Jacqueline Taïeb.

    04. Holy Thistle by Union Fragrances

    Smell the fresh, green aroma of thistle (Cnicus Benedictus) from the Kinrara Estate on the banks of the River Spey in the Scottish Highlands, combined with a halo of misty, icy bay from Pembrokeshire, bracken from the Borders, and Highland pine resin. Union Fragrance uses solely ingredients from Great Britain. All perfumes from the range are created by perfumer Anastasia Brozler. www.unionfragrance.com

    Here comes the Sun by The Beatles.

    05. Matsu by DSH Perfumes

    “Pine tree” in Japanese, Matsu, is the scent of lush forest air, cool, green and refreshing. It has that kind of simplified Japanese aesthetic that feels like not too much but just enough. That is how Matsu is meant to feel: fresh and lively but never over powering or overly complicated. A refreshing scent created by Dawn Spencer Hurwitz with lush leafy green nuances and a touch of humidity.

    Spring is Here by Stan Getz.

  • Alberta Cross, Algae, Amber, Anastasia Brozler, Bay, Bergamot, Berlin, Bracken, Calone, Citrus Notes, Dawn Spencer Hurwitz, DSH Perfumes, Freesia, Gerald Ghislain, Gourmand, Grandiflora, Grapefruit, Histoires de Parfums, Holy Thistle / Union Fragrances, Jacqueline Taïeb, Japan, Jasmine, Leatherwood, Lemon, Lilac, L’Olympia Music Hall / Histoires de Parfums, Magnolia, Magnolia Grandiflora: Michel / Grandiflora, Matsu, Matsu / DSH Perfumes, Michel Roudnitska, Musk, Paris, Paul Kalkbrenner, Peony, Pine, Rose, Saskia Havekes, Schwarzlose, Scotland, Spring, Stan Getz, Sydney, The Beatles, Thistle, Union Fragrances, Véronique Nyberg, Ylang Ylang, Zeitgeist / Schwarzlose

  • Posted: February 23, 2014

    Perfume quote by David Leavitt.
    Perfume quote by David Leavitt.
    Image: 20first.
    Perfume quote by David Leavitt.

    Take a stroll down memory lane!

  • David Leavitt, Perfume Quote

  • Posted: February 20, 2014

    Roy Halston (1932 – 1990) by Andy Warhol.
    Roy Halston (1932 – 1990) by Andy Warhol.
    Polaroid, 1974. Via: www.1stdibs.com
    Roy Halston (1932 – 1990) by Andy Warhol.
    Attitude!
    Halston and his “Halstonettes”.
    Stars galore: Halston, Liza Minelli, Andy Warhol.
    Halston taking a close look.
    Strike a pose!
    Z-14 by Halston, 1976.

    How many VIPs fit into one bottle?

    Legend has it that when evaluating samples for his first men’s fragrance fashion designer Roy Halston (1932 – 1990) couldn’t make up his mind which one to chose so he said, “Launch both!” The names, Z-14 and 1-12 were the code numbers of the samples. The iconic bottle was designed by Elsa Peretti, who also was a model for Helmut Newton and many other photographers of that era. Show more

    Z-14 by Halston was launched in 1976, the juice was created by Vincent Marcello and Max Gavarry. It’s a unique leather fragrance with bergamot, lemon, basil, cypress, gardenia as top notes. Middle notes are vetiver, jasmine, patchouli, coriander, cedarwood, cinnamon and geranium; base notes are amber, leather, olibanum, benzoin, oakmoss, musk and tonca.

    Halston achieved great fame after designing the pillbox hat Jacqueline Kennedy wore to her husband’s presidential inauguration. Newsweek dubbed him “the premier fashion designer of all America.” His designs were closely associated with the international jet set of the Studio 54 era. Among his clients were Bianca Jagger, Lauren Hutton, Liza Minnelli, Anjelica Huston, Gene Tierney, Lauren Bacall, and Elizabeth Taylor. Halston died on March 26, 1990 from an AIDS-related cancer.

    Ultrasuede: In Search of Halston, 2011, U.S. Trailer.

  • This perfume story was brought to you in collaboration with Elements Showcase New York, 2014.

  • 1-12 / Halston, 1976, À la Mode, Amber, Andy Warhol, Anjelica Huston, Basil, Benzoin, Bergamot, Bianca Jagger, Cedarwood, Cinnamon, Coriander, Cypress, Elizabeth Taylor, Elsa Peretti, Fashion, Fashion Designer, Gardenia, Gene Tierney, Geranium, Halston, Helmut Newton, Jacqueline Kennedy, Jasmine, Lauren Bacall, Lauren Hutton, Leather, Lemon, Liza Minelli, Max Gavarry, Musk, New York, Oakmoss, Olibanum, Patchouli, Roy Halston, Studio 54, The Big Apple, Tonka Bean, Vetiver, Vincent Marcello, Z-14 / Halston

  • Posted: February 15, 2014

    Joan Crawford (1904 – 1977).
    Joan Crawford (1904 – 1977).
    Publicity photo, 1940s. Via: www.listal.com
    Joan Crawford (1904 – 1977).
    The Women by George Cukor, 1939.
    Rosalind Russell & Joan Crawford at the perfume counter.
    Royall Limes by Royall Fragrances.
    Joan having an evil eye on Norman Shearer.
    Glitz & Glamour.
    The Women by George Cukor, 1939.

    Joan Crawford is Crystal Allen and perfume is her deadliest weapon.

    In The Women by George Cukor, Joan Crawford plays one of her rare comic roles: the predatory perfume counter girl Crystal Allen who is in search for a rich husband. Her working place in a fancy department store in Manhattan seems to be the perfect hunting ground for this and soon she has her eyes set on Stephen Haines, the respectable husband of Norma Shearer who plays the cheerful, contented wife and mother of Little Mary.

    The entire cast of this 1939 screwball comedy with its 130 speaking roles was female. Even several animals which appeared as pets were also female. Set in the glamorous Manhattan apartments of high society, the movie is full of cracking one liners and has been listed at the National Film Registry as “culturally, historically and aesthetically significant”.

    Joan Crawford’s favorite perfume during the 1930s was Jungle Gardenia by Tuvaché. Later she said in an interview the three scents she “would never want to live without” were: Youth Dew by Estée Lauder; Royall Lyme, a man’s cologne by Royall Fragrances; and Spanish Geranium by Lanvin.

    George Cukor’s The Women: The Confrontation

  • This perfume story was brought to you in collaboration with Elements Showcase New York, 2014.

  • 1939, Actress, Crystal Allen, Estée Lauder, George Cukor, George Hurrell, Joan Crawford, Lanvin, Le Cinéma Olfactif, Manhattan, Movie, New York, Norma Shearer, Rosalind Russel, Royall Fragrances, Royall Lyme / Royall Fragrances, Spanish Geranium / Lanvin, Stephen Haines, The Big Apple, Tuvaché, Youth Dew / Estée Lauder

  • Posted: February 05, 2014

    Ruth Sutcliffe.
    Ruth Sutcliffe.
    Photo by Seb Roy.
    Ruth Sutcliffe.
    Chypre by Coty, 1917.
    François Coty and his wife Yvonne.
    The island of Cyprus.
    Bergdorf Goodman.
    Sandalwood plant.

    Olfactive portrait of New York by Ruth Sutcliffe.

    Ruth Sutcliffe is the Fragrance Designer and Curator for a large and diverse portfolio of celebrity and lifestyle brands for Coty. What does she like best about her job? “My joy and passion is working with some of the most talented perfumers in the world bringing emotion, creativity and beauty to the marketplace through scent.”

    What is your personal secret “olfactive spot” in New York?

    I love going into fine Indian restaurants where the warmth of the space is combined with the experience of alluring and sensuous ingredients like Jasmine and Basmati Rice; exotic spices of Cardamom, Anise, Saffron, Curry, Ginger and Peppers; Naan, and Mint Tea. The overall smell is a very sensual experience.

    What would be the main ingredient for an iconic “Eau de New York”?

    Various wood notes would be the main theme, with sandalwood being the core ingredient. For me, wood is a metaphor for strength and the solid framework for a good home. Wood notes are so naturally sexy, no matter what sex you are.

    Why are you in New York?

    From the age of 13, I knew I belonged in New York. It’s an enduring love life I have with this city: For its vibe, energy, the diversity of life, its people, and culture. There’s something for everyone here.

    Your perfume advice to New Yorkers?

    Wear what connects to you emotionally, and don’t always wear the same fragrance. Have variety, just like the city.

    What is your favorite place in New York to discover and shop fragrance?

    I love Barney’s and Bergdorf’s.

    Please share with us your best New York perfume anecdote!

    This goes back to the second year of living in New York, and the first year working in the business: I was given a blind smelling test to determine if I had a good sense of smell, and if I could communicate in fragrance language. From the first sniff, I detected many aspects of life back on the farm in the Midwest: “I smell flowers (but not one in particular), fruits like peach, and oddly enough … an animal smell … like the goats!” I thought how odd it was to have an animal smell in a perfume, but this fragrance was particularly sexy. The perfumer was so excited that I was able to describe this very unique fragrance, and told me it was Chypre by Coty, inspired by the island of Corsica, where Francois Coty was born and raised.

  • This perfume story was brought to you in collaboration with Elements Showcase New York, 2014.

  • Anise, Cardamom, Chypre / Coty, Corsica, Coty, Curry, Cyprus, François Coty, Ginger, Jasmine, New York, Olfactive Portrait, Pepper, Ruth Sutcliffe, Saffron, Sandalwood, The Big Apple

  • Posted: January 31, 2014

    The scent of New York City!
    The scent of New York City!
    Collage: 20first.
    The scent of New York City!

    The name is the message!

    Countless fragrances have been inspired by New York. Here is a list of perfumes that have even been named after the city that never sleeps. Feel free to let us know which ones we missed!

    5th Avenue NYC by Elizabeth Arden (2012) | Arabian Fashion: New York by Arabian Oud | Autograph New York by Marks and Spencer | Caravan NYC by Demeter (2011) | Défilé New York by Histoires de Parfums (2010) | DKNY Love from New York by Donna Karan (2009) | DKNY Be Delicious Heart NYC by Donna Karan (2012) | Eau de New York by Bond No. 9 (2004) | Like a Trip to New York by Essence (2012) | Manhattan by Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab | Manhattan Rose by Krigler | New York by Heaven’s Alchemy | New York by Parfums de Nicolaï (1989) | New York by United Scents of America (2012) | New York Amber by Bond No.9 (2011) | New York Fling by Bond No. 9 (2003) | New York for Gentlemen by Brooks Brothers (2008) | New York Nights by Girard (2008) | New York Oud by Bond No. 9 (2011) | New York Sass by Impulse (2007) | New York Yankees by New York Yankees | NYC New York by The Scent of Departure (2012) | SJP NYC by Sarah Jessica Parker (2010) | Une Ville, un Parfum: New York by Guerlain (2009)

  • This perfume story was brought to you in collaboration with Elements Showcase New York, 2014.

  • 5th Avenue NYC / Elizabeth Arden, Amber, Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab, Bond No. 9, Brooks Brothers, Caravan NYC / Demeter, Défilé New York / Histoires de Parfums, Demeter, DKNY Be Delicious Heart NYC / Donna Karan, DKNY Love from New York / Donna Karan, Donna Karan, Eau de New York / Bond No. 9, Elizabeth Arden, Guerlain, Histoires de Parfums, Manhattan, Manhattan / Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab, New York, New York / Parfums de Nicolaï, New York Amber / Bond No. 9, New York Fling / Bond No. 9, New York for Gentlemen / Brooks Brothers, New York Oud / Bond No. 9, NYC New York / The Scent of Departure, Oud, Parfums de Nicolaï, The Big Apple, The Scent of Departure, Une Ville un Parfum: New York / Guerlain

  • Posted: January 29, 2014

    Laurice Rahme.
    Laurice Rahme.
    Photo courtesy of Laurice Rahme.
    Laurice Rahme.
    The High Line, New York.
    “New York has a very sweet tooth.”
    Ferns from The New York Botanical Gardens.
    “New York has a very sweet tooth.”
    Building by Louis Sullivan in NoHo.

    Olfactive portrait of New York by Laurice Rahme.

    After a first career in antiques trade and years of extensive traveling as international training director at Lancôme, Paris-born Laurice Rahme fell in love with New York and founded her own perfume label Bond No. 9 in 2003. The brand is entirely dedicated to the Big Apple and has produced over 60 fragrances that encompass many New York neighborhoods, beaches, and places. The company’s flagship is located at 9 Bond Street in the NoHo district of Manhattan. Several perfumes from the Bond No. 9 range have been awarded with the industry’s most prestigious prize, the FiFi Award. In 2012, New York Oud won the FiFi Award for Perfume Extraordinaire.

    What is your personal secret “olfactive spot” in New York?

    The High Line has been my secret “olfactive spot” in New York for the past 3 years. Their calendar of planning, featured on their website, explains why.

    What smell reminds you of New York when you are abroad?

    When I’m abroad the smell of warm pastries always reminds me of New York. In parallel to this, New York has a very sweet tooth.

    Why are you in New York?

    For freedom, creativity, openness, and adventure! New York inspires me to always try new things.

    Your perfume advice to New Yorkers?

    Always try the fragrance on your skin, not blotter cards. When choosing a fragrance, choose what smells good on you, not what the advertising campaign tells you to try.

    Does New York offer more perfume stories than other cities?

    Yes it does, because each neighborhood is its own village with its own culture, its own spirit. There are a few hundreds of different villages in New York, so I have a lot of work to do!

    What is your favorite place in New York to discover and shop fragrance?

    My favorite place to discover scents is at The New York Botanical Gardens, it’s always different, and it’s always well-kept, it is the most exciting place in New York for smelling.

    Please share with us your best New York perfume anecdote!

    In the middle of August 2006, before The High Line was built in the Meatpacking District, The Washington Post wanted me, a perfumer, to smell “the worst places in New York.” So, they took me to meet with the meat vendors, the smell of meat in 90 degree heat turned my stomach. After meeting with meat vendors they then took me to Chinatown to the chicken factories. The heat was so unbearable that not only my nose, but, my stomach could not take the smell. The article is available at the following link if you are interested in the full story! : www.washingtonpost.com

    What is New York’s most exciting neighborhood at the moment?

    NoHo is the most exciting place in New York at this time, specifically Bond Street where our headquarters are located.

  • This perfume story was brought to you in collaboration with Elements Showcase New York, 2014.

  • Bond No. 9, Chinatown, FiFi Award, Lancôme, Laurice Rahme, Louis Sullivan, New York, New York Oud / Bond No. 9, Olfactive Portrait, Paris, The Big Apple, The High Line, The New York Botanical Gardens

  • Posted: January 24, 2014

    Rodrigo Flores-Roux.
    Rodrigo Flores-Roux.
    Photo by Isauro Cairo.
    Rodrigo Flores-Roux.
    Linden tree: Blossoms, fruits and leaves.
    … and a touch of a very dry gin martini.
    E. Vogel: Shoe makers, New York.
    The smell of wet concrete …

    Olfactive portrait of New York by Rodrigo Flores-Roux.

    Rodrigo Flores-Roux is a renowned master perfumer. He has been responsible for iconic bestsellers like Happy by Clinique as well as for all scents by John Varvatos and the Velvet Collection by Dolce & Gabbana. He is also the nose behind many creations from Arquiste, Six Scents Perfumes and other indie labels. If you ask him what he does for a living he’ll tell you: “I make scents! And as a Mexican, I like infusing them with the love of my country. I also find inspiration in art and art history, and am proud to say that perfume is the love of my life.”

    What is your personal secret “olfactive spot” in New York?

    New York is a city of extremes, and as such, offers an enormous display of interesting scents … But not all of them are good. Very frequently, the pungent encounters the delicate, and the ugly can battle the beautiful. However, I always enjoy April in the West Village, when the linden trees are in full bloom. Their refreshing, green floral notes, laced with honey and cantaloupe melons, are just amazing. I also enjoy the masculine, woody and leathery scent that you encounter upon entering E. Vogel, a traditional boot maker who has been based in the city for over a century. They continue to make cobbler bench made shoes and riding boots, and the scented atmosphere of their store down in Howard Street is absolutely delightful. You just dive into a mixture of different leather scents, wooden wall panels and a hint of metal, maybe because of the nails and hammers …

    What would be the main ingredient for an iconic “Eau de New York”?

    Wet concrete, the uplifting scent in the air after a lightning storm, linden blossoms, leather and a touch of a very dry gin martini …

    Why are you in New York?

    Yes, perfume making brought me here. I started working as a junior perfumer at IFF in my home town of Mexico City. After five years, I was given the opportunity to come to the American headquarters of IFF, still located on West 57th street. Just two days ago, I celebrated my 18th anniversary of moving to Manhattan. Even since the first time I visited New York as a tourist, I somehow knew this was the place that I was going to live in … The city I call home.

    Your perfume advice to New Yorkers?

    Manhattanites are savvy, sophisticated people, and they know their way around perfume quite well. But here are some modest words of wisdom: First of all, please wear MORE!!! I miss smelling fragrances in the street …

    Also: Do not spray the air to form “a cloud” to walk into. It is a waste of money. Spray directly on you.

    And thirdly … One of my pet peeves: the presence of coffee bean jars in perfume stores. Smelling them “to clear your nose” is a misconception and they don’t really help. Coffee beans smell much stronger than any perfume out there! I’ve been known to throw the coffee beans away, when I see them in stores …

    What is your favorite place in New York to discover and shop fragrance?

    I have to say Aedes de Venustas. The taste level is incredible, it’s a store just filled with beautiful things. These guys know what they are doing. And also, they are good friends!

    Please share with us your best New York perfume anecdote!

    I have many to share, but here’s one: I have always lived in a prewar building on West 54 street. Originally, I rented an apartment on the 4th floor. Right at the street level, living in a small apartment, there was a young guy who clearly enjoyed going to the gym as he was in great shape and had huge arms. He also loved loved loved a men’s cologne which will remained unnamed … He literally showered in it everyday. He worked in a HR company, and he would leave the building exactly at 8:30 am, like a clock. I was able to tell if I was early or late for work just by peeking out of my apartment door and sniffing the air — in the 4th floor hallways! If the scent was strong, I was on time. If it was lighter, I was late! Again, I could smell it from the 4th floor.

    I befriended him as a good New York neighbor. Some time after, he got engaged, got married and left the apartment building. But destiny has it that many years later, I saw him again. He had changed jobs, and had become a qualified trainer at my gym. He was clearly putting to work all of his knowledge in gym training and fitness. And he is my trainer now! (He also knows about me using his cologne as a clock.!)

  • This perfume story was brought to you in collaboration with Elements Showcase New York, 2014.

  • Aedes de Venustas, Arquiste, Cary Grant, Clinique, Floral Notes, Green Notes, Happy / Clinique, Honey, IFF, John Varvatos, Linden Blossom, Melon, New York, Olfactive Portrait, Rodrigo Flores-Roux, Six Scents Perfumes, The Big Apple, Vintage / John Varvatos

  • Posted: January 22, 2014

    Olivia Bransbourg.
    Olivia Bransbourg.
    Photo by Greg Kessler courtesy of 25 Magazine & Anja Rubik.
    Olivia Bransbourg.
    ATTACHE-MOI by Guy Lesser and Christina Kruse.
    Changing lights over New York skyline I.
    Changing lights over New York skyline II.
    Changing lights over New York skyline III.
    Louise Brooks in Pandora’s Box.
    ATTACHE-MOI & ATTACHE-MOI 55 by ICONOfly.

    Olfactive portrait of New York by Olivia Bransbourg.

    Olivia Bransbourg is the founder of ICONOfly, a French creative company involved in publishing, scents and fashion accessories, digging into the history, craftsmanship and metamorphosis of iconic topics. It has given over 60 cartes blanches to artists, chefs, musicians, designers and perfumers since its creation in 2006. Olivia has also been consulting for Takasago New York in fine fragrance business development and creative direction since 2012.

    What is your personal secret “olfactive spot” in New York?

    If you want MY personal secret “olfactive spot” in New York, then it can only be the one in my closet! There, away from the light, up straight in a (Pandora?) box, next to each other, are standing friends from other times in life: Loulou, Ô de Lancôme, No. 5, Jardin de Bagatelle, Samsara, Eternity, Arpège, Mitsouko, Eau d’Hermès, Putain des Palaces, Tabac Blond, Fleur de Cassie, L’Eau Noire. I still visit them occasionally.

    What would be the main ingredient for an iconic “Eau de New York”?

    It couldn’t be one raw material. New York is too complex. The light could actually be the ingredient. This is what I tried to capture when working on ATTACHE-MOI 55 with perfumer Patricia Choux. Capturing the scent of New York, making it bright and dark at the same time. A fragrance that translates the energy of the city. We used mandarin, mirabelle, cardamom, osmanthus, orris, jasmine, amber woods, cashmere musk and vetiver. Recently, I’ve started taking a train from a new location in Brooklyn and photographing each day the view from the platform, using the same angle. Whether with fog, or rain, the light is always intense and omnipresent.

    Why are you in New York?

    To embrace its energy.

    Your perfume advice to New Yorkers?

    Go to The Cloisters in spring, feel the old stones and the flowers nearby with New York in the background. Take either the bus, the train or the cab and trigger conversations with people you’ve never met before, asking them which perfume they wear.

    What is your favorite place in New York to discover and shop fragrance?

    According to the day and the mood, Barneys, Bergdorf, Aedes de Venustas. I haven’t visited Oswald yet.

    Please share with us your best New York perfume anecdote!

    I made a beautiful encounter a year ago in the train with someone who happened to be a singer from the Metropolitan Opera. We ended up exchanging emails on what kind of scent Carmen would be wearing. Would it be musky, spicy or both?

  • This perfume story was brought to you in collaboration with Elements Showcase New York, 2014.

  • Amber, Arpège / Lanvin, Attache-Moi 55 / Iconofly, Bransbourg Olivia, Cacharel, Calvin Klein, Cardamom, Carmen, Caron, Chanel, Chanel No. 5 / Chanel, Christian Dior, Christina Kruse, Eau d’Hermès / Hermès, Eau Noire / Christian Dior, Etat Libre d’Orange, Eternity / Calvin Klein, Fleur de Cassie / Frédéric Malle, Frédéric Malle, George Bizet, Guerlain, Guy Lesser, Hermès, ICONOfly, Jardin de Bagatelle / Guerlain, Jasmine, Lancôme, Lanvin, Louise Brooks, Loulou / Cacharel, Mandarin, Mirabelle, Mitsouko / Guerlain, Musk, New York, Ô de Lancôme / Lancôme, Olfactive Portrait, Orris, Osmanthus, Patricia Choux, Putain des Palaces / Etat Libre d’Orange, Samsara / Guerlain, Tabac Blond / Caron, Takasago, The Big Apple, Vetiver

  • Posted: January 16, 2014

    Mr. Chandler Burr.
    Mr. Chandler Burr.
    Photo courtesy of Chandler Burr.
    Mr. Chandler Burr.
    Logo of Aedes de Venustas, New York.
    Shop window, Aedes de Venustas, New York.
    Coney Island.
    Quentin Crisp, 1908 – 1999.

    Olfactive portrait of New York by Mr. Chandler Burr.

    Chandler Burr is a journalist, author, and curator of olfactory art. He created the New York Times perfume critic’s position, which he occupied from 2006 – 2010. In 2010 Chandler left the Times to establish the world’s first department of olfactory art at the Museum of Arts and Design in New York City. His first novel was published in 2009. Chandler conducts a series of perfume dinners around the world. He lives in New York City.

    What is your personal secret “olfactive spot” in New York?

    Coney Island.

    What would be the main ingredient for an iconic “Eau de New York”?

    The smell of New York State granite.

    Why are you in New York?

    “I live in New York for the same reason everyone does—to be able to rule the world should the opportunity arise.” Quentin Crisp

    Your perfume advice to New Yorkers?

    Apart from the aesthetics and style of your perfumes, which are up to each of us and not subject to objective debate, you want the highest quality raw materials. That generally correlates with price but not always. The quality of the materials in Pleasures and Light Blue, to name merely two, is as high as in most niches that cost three times more. Don’t be a snob. It wastes your time and it’s tiresome for the rest of us.

    What is your favorite place in New York to discover and shop fragrance?

    Aedes de Venustas.

    Please share with us your best New York perfume anecdote!

    About ten years ago I was at G bar on West 19th and met a very hot young Argentine guy. He took me outside — it was summer — and we started making out, but after about two seconds I pulled my head back a bit and said, “Are you wearing For Him by Narciso Rodriguez?” He looked startled. He said, “Yes.” I said, “It’s awesome”, and started kissing him again. He was game enough, but I know it freaked him out a little.

  • This perfume story was brought to you in collaboration with Elements Showcase New York, 2014.

  • Aedes de Venustas, Chandler Burr, Coney Island, Dolce & Gabbana, Estée Lauder, For Him / Narciso Rodriguez, Light Blue / Dolce & Gabbana, Museum of Arts and Design New York, Narciso Rodriguez, New York, New York Times, Olfactive Portrait, Pleasures / Estée Lauder, Quentin Crisp, The Big Apple

  • Posted: January 15, 2014

    Kavi Ahuja & David Moltz of D.S. & Durga.
    Kavi Ahuja & David Moltz of D.S. & Durga.
    Photo by D.S. & Durga.
    Kavi Ahuja & David Moltz of D.S. & Durga.
    Roman’s in Fort Green.
    Twisted Lily, Brooklyn.
    Min perfumery, New York.
    Osswald parent house in Zurich.
    Movie Poster Taxi Driver

    Olfactive portrait of New York by David Moltz & Kavi Ahuja from D.S. & Durga.

    D.S: & Durga’s perfumes are researched stories that use olfactive accords — often taken from historical literature, archaic wisdom, and orchestral music — to reference an entire world in the bottle. All scents & designs are drafted in house by D.S. & Durga.

    What is your personal secret “olfactive spot” in New York?

    I love the smell of Roman’s in Fort Greene. They cook everything in a wood burning stove, which makes the place smell amazing.

    What would be the main ingredient for an iconic “Eau de New York”?

    I think there are too many facets to NYC to make it represented in one scent. I guess I would start with exhaust fumes and beautify it with good old fashion Madison Avenue luxury — jasmine, orris, et al.

    Why are you in New York?

    The vibrant beat of the city is constantly inspiring. Like most New Yorkers we moved here for the opportunity & culture, and happily got stuck. It is addictive and very difficult to leave behind once you are consumed by it.

    Your perfume advice to New Yorkers?

    There is no space in New York. You have to create small spots for yourself. Perfume is a great way to conjure up other places & times. It is portable travel that helps you create your own little spaces — be it an apartment, office, or a cloud that surrounds you (just don’t make the cloud to big “Hey! I’m walkin ‘ere!”).

    What is your favorite place in New York to discover and shop fragrance?

    Barneys in Manhattan, Twisted Lily in Brooklyn. Min and Osswald are also amazing.

    Please share with us your best New York perfume anecdote!

    One time I stepped into a cab and it smelled like our Bowmakers scent. I looked at the cabbie who for a cabbie was quite a well-dressed man. Turned out he was a fan!

  • This perfume story was brought to you in collaboration with Elements Showcase New York, 2014.

  • Bowmakers / D.S. & Durga, D.S. & Durga, David Seth Moltz, Jasmine, Kavi Ahuja, Martin Scorsese, New York, Olfactive Portrait, Orris, Robert De Niro, The Big Apple

  • Posted: January 07, 2014

    Perfume quote by Elbert Hubbard.
    Perfume quote by Elbert Hubbard.
    Image: 20first.
    Perfume quote by Elbert Hubbard.

    Olfactoric camouflage!

  • Elbert Hubbard, Perfume Quote

  • Posted: December 26, 2013

    Barbara Hutton.
    Barbara Hutton.
    Dorothy Wilding, 1938. © William Georgina Hustler. Via: www.npg.org.uk
    Barbara Hutton.
    Barbara Hutton with her 3rd husband, Cary Grant.
    Joy by Jean Patou.
    Barbara Hutton on the Lido in Venice.
    Barbara Hutton, leaving Plaza Athenée with secretary/chauffeur.
    Farrah Fawcett as Barbara Hutton.

    Poor little rich girl.

    The fact that Joy by Jean Patou (voted “Scent of the Century” by the Fragrance Foundation in 2000) was the favorite perfume of American socialite and heiress Barbara Hutton is nothing less than an irony of history. No other word could be more unfitting for the unhappy life of a woman who’s often been dubbed “Poor Little Rich Girl”. Inheriting the fortune from her father, retail tycoon Frank Winfield Woolworth, on her 21st birthday made her one of the world’s wealthiest women, much envied for her possessions and her life of leisure. In reality she endured a disastrous childhood and seven unhappy marriages and, after being maliciously exploited by many of her husbands died in 1979 with only 35 hundred dollars left of her fortune. Show more

    Her lavish débutante ball in 1930 cost $60,000 ($838,000 in 2012) — in middle of the great depression. Public criticism was so severe that she was sent on a tour of Europe to escape the onslaught of the press.

    Her third husband Cary Grant was one of the few men in her life who appeared to genuinely care for her. The couple was dubbed “Cash and Cary” although Grant did not need her money nor to benefit from her name — he was a celebrity in his own right.

    Joy was created by perfumer Henri Alméras in 1929 for Parisian couturier Jean Patou. It is considered a landmark example of the floral genre. In advertising Patou bragged about Joy being “the costliest perfume in the world” and indeed it was created as a paradox reaction to the 1929 Wall Street. Joy was voted “Scent of the Century” by the public at the Fragrance Foundation FiFi Awards in 2000, beating its rival Chanel’s No. 5.

  • This perfume story was brought to you in collaboration with Elements Showcase New York, 2014.

  • 1930, Barbara Hutton, Cary Grant, Chanel, Chanel No. 5 / Chanel, Dorothy Wilding, Frank Winfield Woolworth, Jean Alméras, Jean Patou, Joy / Jean Patou, New York, Paris, Plaza Athenée, Slim Aarons, The Big Apple, Venice, Vintage Ad

  • Posted: December 23, 2013

    Nuit de Noël by Caron, 1922.
    Nuit de Noël by Caron, 1922.
    Vintage ad, 1930s. Collage: 20first.
    Nuit de Noël by Caron, 1922.

    The essence of a solemn and special moment!

    Nuit de Noël isn’t your regular Xmas potpourri with nutmeg, cinnamon, cloves, orange peels and gingerbread. It’s not re-enacting the olfactory sensations of Christmas Eve, it’s rather the essence of a solemn and special moment full of light and darkness. A classic chypre structure with animalic vibes, distinct moss notes and some woody notes — suave, delicate and warm! Nuit de Noël was launched in 1922, created by one of the founders of Caron, Ernest Daltroff.

  • 1922, Caron, Christmas, Chypre, Ernest Daltroff, Moss, Nuit de Noël / Caron, Vintage Ad, Woody Notes

  • Posted: December 12, 2013

    Perfume quote by Mencius.
    Perfume quote by Mencius.
    Image: 20first.
    Perfume quote by Mencius.

    The sweet here and now!

  • Mencius, Perfume Quote

  • Posted: December 07, 2013

    Grey Flannel by Geoffrey Beene.
    Grey Flannel by Geoffrey Beene.
    Vintage ad, 1980.
    Grey Flannel by Geoffrey Beene.
    Gregory Peck: The Man in the Gray Flannel Suit.
    Geoffrey Beene.
    Grey Flannel by Geoffrey Beene.
    Grey Flannel by Geoffrey Beene.

    Cleanliness is next to godliness!

    Geoffrey Beene (1927 – 2004) was one of New York’s most celebrated designers of his time, famous for his simple but classy creations. His clients included Pat Nixon, Nancy Reagan, Faye Dunaway and Glenn Close amongst others. Grey Flannel (Perfumer: André Fromentin) was his first perfume and it was launched in 1976. A one of a kind fragrance that starts crisp, herbal and medicinal and has a soapy, woody dry down. Violets clearly run the show here! The epitome of clean masculinity and one of the great classics for men! Show more

    Beene died from Cancer in 2004. The Council of Fashion Designers of America honor created the annual Geoffrey Beene Lifetime Achievement Award in honor of his fashion legacy in 1984. An number of his apprentices became extremely successful themselves, e.g. Kay Unger, Alber Elbaz and Doo Ri Chung.

    A documentary on Geoffrey Beene’s life and work is available on Youtube:

  • This perfume story was brought to you in collaboration with Elements Showcase New York, 2014.

  • À la Mode, Alber Elbaz, André Fromentin, Doo Ri Chung, Faye Dunaway, Geoffrey Beene, Glenn Close, Gregory Peck, Grey Flannel / Geoffrey Beene, Kay Unger, Nancy Reagan, New York, Pat Nixon, The Big Apple, The Man in the Gray Flannel Suit, Vintage Ad, Violet

  • Posted: December 01, 2013

    Lovely Rita!
    Lovely Rita!
    Publicity photo, 1940s. Via: www.doyouremember.com
    Lovely Rita!
    Rita’s perfume collection.
    Rita before Rita: Margarita Carmen Cansino.
    Rita Hayworth and Fred Astaire.
    Rita Hayworth in Gilda.
    With Orson Welles, Errol Flynn and Nora Eddington.
    Framed!
    Réplique by Raphael.

    Rita Hayworth likes Réplique by Raphael.

    The woman the world admired as Rita Hayworth was born in 1918 as Margarita Carmen Cansino. After playing small roles as the exotic “Latin Type”, she changed her hair color to dark red, had her hairline completely reshaped by painful electrolysis and transformed into the all-American pin-up Rita Hayworth literally overnight. Her career went straight through the roof and she was one of the tope stars during the 1940s. She is mostly remembered for her dance movies with Fred Astaire and Gene Kelly as well as starring in The Lady from Shanghai and in Gilda, the movie that definded the archetype of the vamp. Rita Hayworth’s favorite perfume was Réplique by Paris based perfume house Raphael, launched in 1944. Show more

    Réplique is a woody fragrance with bergamot, lemon, cardamom, neroli, coriander, clary sage and aldehydes as top notes; ylang ylang, lily of the valley, jasmine, mimosa, tuberose, heliotrope and coumarin as middle notes and oakmoss, olibanum, musk, amber, vetiver and patchouli as base notes.

    Rita Hayworth appeared in a total of 61 films over 37 years and has a record of five unhappy marriages, amongst others with Orson Welles and Prince Aly Khan. She once said: “They went to bed with Gilda, but they woke up with me.” She died of Alzheimer’s decease in 1987.

  • Aldehydes, Aly Khan, Amber, Bergamot, Cardamom, Cinema, Clary Sage, Coriander, Coumarin, Errol Flynn, Fred Astaire, Gilda, Heliotrope, Jasmine, Le Cinéma Olfactif, Lemon, Lily of the Valley, Margarita Carmen Cansino, Mimosa, Movie, Musk, Neroli, Nora Eddington, Oakmoss, Olibanum, Orson Welles, Patchouli, Raphael, Réplique / Raphael, Rita Hayworth, The Lady from Shanghai, Tuberose, Vetiver, Vintage Ad, Ylang Ylang

  • Posted: November 21, 2013

    Parfums Lenthéric.
    Parfums Lenthéric.
    Vintage ad, 1920s. Via: www.vintageadbrowser.com
    Parfums Lenthéric.
    Pastell Bouquets by Lenthéric.
    Tweed by Lenthéric.
    Parfums Lenthéric.
    Shanghai by Lenthéric.

    The downfall of the House of Lenthéric.

    Lenthéric started as a millinery in 1795 and later added the services of a beauty parlor in 245 Rue St. Honoré in Paris. The brand had its heydays in 1920s and 1930s. It was sold to Squibb — a global biopharmaceutical multi in 1942 and this pretty much marked the end of Lenthéric as a premium label. It has peen passed down from one owner to next and today leads the life of a zombie brand with a range of cheap scents in abominable packaging. A range of beautiful vintage ads tells the story of the downfall of the house of Lenthéric.

  • Lenthéric, Paris, Pastell Bouquets / Lenthéric, Shanghai / Lenthéric, Tweed / Lenthéric, Vintage Ad

  • Posted: November 11, 2013

    Perfume quote by Marian Bendeth.
    Perfume quote by Marian Bendeth.
    Image: 20first.
    Perfume quote by Marian Bendeth.

    Talking loud and clear!

  • Marian Bendeth, Perfume Quote

  • Posted: November 07, 2013

    L’Air du Temps by Nina Ricci.
    L’Air du Temps by Nina Ricci.
    Vintage ad, 1966
    L’Air du Temps by Nina Ricci.
    Nico Päffgen, The Velvet Underground.
    The Velvet Underground and Andy Warhol.
    The Velvet Underground & Nico.
    Nico Päffgen.
    L’Air du Temps by Nina Ricci.
    Nico, The Marble Index.

    From advertising to Pop Art — and back again!

    L’Air du Temps launched in 1948 by Paris based fashion and perfume house Nina Ricci, had been the epitome of feminine romance and a quite bearable lightness of being for almost 20 years when a new ad campaign heralded a new age and a new understanding of the phrase l’air du temps, actually meaning Zeitgeist. And the times they were a changing … The ad had obviously been influenced by Andy Wahrhol’s latest creations, the band The Velvet Underground and is a beautiful example how Warhol’s work that was inspired by advertising back lashed into popular culture. Show more

    The Velvet Underground featured Lou Reed, John Cale — and Nico Päffgen, a model from Germany about whom Alain Delon’s mother said she was the most beautiful women she had ever met. Alain must have thought the same, he and Nico became lovers and the two of them had one child, Ari. After a tragic life between drugs and musical genius Nico died from heart failure in 1988.

  • À la Mode, Alain Delon, Andy Warhol, John Cale, Lou Reed, L’Air du Temps / Nina Ricci, Nico Päffgen, Nina Ricci, Paris, The Velvet Underground, Vintage Ad

  • Posted: October 31, 2013

    Amelia Earhart, En Avion by Caron.
    Amelia Earhart, En Avion by Caron.
    Vintage ad. Collage: 20first.
    Amelia Earhart, En Avion by Caron.
    En Avion by Caron
    Amelia Earhart.
    En Avion by Caron
    Amelia Earhart in front of her Lockhead Model 10 Electra.
    Amelia Earhart with Cary Grant.
    Flying in Style: Amelia Earhart.
    Cockpit of a Lockhead Model 10 Electra.

    Modern — daring — for flights of fancy!

    … this was Caron’s tag line for En Avion, created by Ernest Daltroff and released in 1929 in hommage to aviatress Amelia Earhart who ruled the skies from the 1920s on through the 30s breaking many records while enthralling a global audience. Earhart was the first female aviator to fly solo across the Atlantic Ocean. During an attempt to make a circumnavigational flight of the globe in 1937, Earhart disappeared over the central Pacific Ocean near Howland Island. Show more

    Beautiful, uncompromising and sexy, she symbolized an entirely new interpretation of womanhood. She co-founded The Ninety-Nines, an organization for female pilots and was a member of the National Woman’s Party, as well as an early supporter of the Equal Rights Amendment. En Avion captures the scent of an entire orange grove — the earth, the branches, the fruit and the zest. Carnations, roses and hyacinth round up the bouquet. In the base a leather note provides the right touch of toughness to do justice to Amelia Erhart’s complex character.

  • Amelia Earhart, Atlantic Ocean, Caron, Cary Grant, En Avion / Caron, Ernest Daltroff, Myrna Loy, Orange, Pacific Ocean, Vintage Ad

  • Posted: October 28, 2013

    Perfume quote by Christian Dior.
    Perfume quote by Christian Dior.
    Image: 20first.
    Perfume quote by Christian Dior.

    Lovin’ it!

  • À la Mode, Christian Dior, Perfume Quote

  • Posted: October 23, 2013

    Leather Oud by Christian Dior.
    Leather Oud by Christian Dior.
    Perfumer: François Demachy, 2010
    Leather Oud by Christian Dior.
    Boisé Fruité by Montale.
    Moods Uomo by Krizia.
    Dreckig Bleiben by Atelier PMP.
    Cadjméré by Parfumerie Générale.

    I hear perfume: Smell this and listen to the music!

    Autumn’s done come! We selected 5 scents to welcome the season — and one song to match each of them. Click here to find out out more about Leather Oud by Christian Dior, Dreckig Bleiben by Atelier PMP, Boisé Fruité by Montale, Cadjméré by Parfumerie Générale and Moods Uomo by Krizia and listen to Johnny Cash, the Manic Street Preachers, Donna Summer, Eva Cassidy and The Small Faces! Show more

    1. Leather Oud by Christian Dior

    A lonely hunting lodge in the woods, smoke from the fireside and a belling stag pacing through the mist. Dive into darkness with this provocative and animalic oud-leather-patchouli scent from Dior’s exclusive Collection Privée.

    I See A Darkness by Johnny Cash

    2. Dreckig Bleiben by Atelier PMP

    “Dreckig bleiben — stay dirty!”, was the greet amongst Hamburg’s punks and squatters — a metaphor for an authentic appreciation of the world: the smell of last night’s bonfire hanging on, staying grounded, friendship, honesty. Mind the cap made of centuries-old wood from timber-framed houses.

    Autumnsong by Manic Street Preachers

    3. Boisé Fruité by Montale

    An oddly unique scent with bone-dry woody notes meeting the metallic coolness of Italian Bergamot. Does it make you think of Canard à l’Orange on a cold and rainy autumn day? Welcome to the club! Not for the faint-hearted but highly addictive!

    Autumn Changes by Donna Summer

    4. Cadjméré by Parfumerie Générale

    One of the delights of autumn is to go shopping for a new wardrobe. Try on this cashmere sweater in a bottle: cosy, dusky-woody, semi-resinous, semi-sweet. Fruits and cypress in the background make sure this works for boys and girls. Cocooning at its best!

    Autumn Leaves by Eva Cassidy

    5. Moods Uomo by Krizia

    As smooth as it gets! Think of a very masculine, sophisticated, well-dressed man reading Corriere della Sera while sipping on a single malt — or just think of Marcello Mastroianni … A velvety and warm masterpiece from 1989 that should never have been discontinued.

    The Autumn Stone by The Small Faces

  • Atelier PMP, Autumn, Bergamot, Boisé Fruité / Montale, Cadjméré / Parfumerie Générale, Canard à l’Orange, Christian Dior, Corriere della Sera, Donna Summer, Dreckig Bleiben / Atelier PMP, Eva Cassidy, François Demachy, Johnny Cash, Krizia, Leather, Leather Oud / Christian Dior, Manic Street Preachers, Marcello Mastroianni, Mark Buxton, Montale, Moods Uomo / Krizia, Oud, Parfumerie Générale, Patchouli, Pierre Guillaume, Pierre Montale, Smoke, The Small Faces, Woods

  • Posted: October 17, 2013

    4711 Blue & Gold Label.
    4711 Blue & Gold Label.
    Vintage perfume ad, 1939
    4711 Blue & Gold Label.

    … radiant and ready!

    Valkyries can be sexy, too! Is it Brünnhilde, Helmwige, Gerhilde, Ortlinde, Waltraute, Siegrune, Roßweiße, Grimgerde or Schwertleite?

  • 4711, 4711 Echt Kölnisch Wasser / 4711, Cologne, Rhinegold, Vintage Ad

  • Posted: October 09, 2013

    Perfume quote by Rita Rudner.
    Perfume quote by Rita Rudner.
    Image: 20first.
    Perfume quote by Rita Rudner.

    Rita knows the score!

  • Perfume Quote, Rita Rudner

  • Posted: October 07, 2013

    Fay Wray in King Kong.
    Fay Wray in King Kong.
    Movie still, 1933. Via: www.doctormacro.com
    Fay Wray in King Kong.
    King Kong, opening titles.
    Fay Wray with perfume bottle.
    Jungle Gardenia by Tuvaché.
    Kong and Fay Wray in King Kong.
    Michael Jackson, rejected album cover.
    Elizabeth Taylor in The Last Time I Saw Paris.
    Fay Wray’s star on Hollywood’s walk of fame.

    Jungle Gardenia: Fay Wray, King Kong, Liz Taylor and Michael Jackson.

    Fay Wray (1907 – 2004) played Ann Darrow, the woman that caused King Kong’s untimely death on top of the Empire State Building in the original movie from 1933. Legend has it she wore Jungle Gardenia by Tuvaché during the filming. Wray believed Kong thought she was a rare type of flower he had found. She felt that being so tiny to him, he could only distinguish her from other women by her scent. A truly fatal attraction! Show more

    Barbara Stanwyck, Joan Crawford and Natalie Wood are just some of the stars that loved the fragrance: In a 2009 Interview with Vanity Fair Michael Jackson speaks about using the perfume while performing — seemingly he was introduced to it by his close friend and twin soul Liz Taylor …

  • This perfume story was brought to you in collaboration with Elements Showcase New York, 2014.

  • Barbara Stanwyck, Empire State Building, Fay Wray, Joan Crawford, Jungle Gardenia / Tuvaché, King Kong, Le Cinéma Olfactif, Michael Jackson, Movie, Natalie Wood, New York, The Big Apple, Tuvaché

  • Posted: September 29, 2013

    René Gruau for Christian Dior.
    René Gruau for Christian Dior.
    Vintage perfume ad, 1972
    René Gruau for Christian Dior.
    René Gruau for Christian Dior.
    René Gruau for Christian Dior.
    René Gruau for Christian Dior.
    René Gruau for Christian Dior.

    Amazing perfume ads from the past: sexy funny!

    6 years after the launch of Christian Dior’s iconic fragrance Eau Sauvage, legendary illustrator René Gruau (1909 – 2004) proofed that he couldn’t only do elegant and sophisticated but sexy, too! For many years Gruau was responsible for the incredibly appealing but funny illustrations that Dior used for their print ads. To find out more about his work, check out www.renegruau.com!

  • Christian Dior, Eau Sauvage / Christian Dior, René Gruau, Vintage Ad

  • Posted: September 28, 2013

    Perfume quote by Coco Chanel.
    Perfume quote by Coco Chanel.
    Image: 20first.
    Perfume quote by Coco Chanel.

    Cat fight quote of the day.

  • À la Mode, Chanel, Coco Chanel, Perfume Quote

  • Posted: September 27, 2013

    Ali MacGraw for Chanel For The Bath.
    Ali MacGraw for Chanel For The Bath.
    Vintage ad, 1966
    Ali MacGraw for Chanel For The Bath.
    Ali MacGraw and Steve McQueen in The Getaway.
    Ali MacGraw for Chanel For The Bath.
    Ali MacGraw and Steve McQueen in The Getaway.
    Ali MacGraw by Francesco Scavullo.

    Amazing perfume ads from the past: Ali MacGraw for Chanel.

    Vintage ad featuring young model Ali MacGraw, 2 years before her first movie A Lovely Way To Die and 7 years before she married super star Steve McQueen. The two met during the production of Sam Peckinpah’s legendary thriller The Getaway in 1972 and were married until 1978.

  • Ali MacGraw, Coco Chanel, Sam Peckinpah, Steve McQueen, The Getaway, Vintage Ad

  • Posted: September 25, 2013

    Perfume quote by Jean-Paul Guerlain.
    Perfume quote by Jean-Paul Guerlain.
    Image: 20first.
    Perfume quote by Jean-Paul Guerlain.

    What is your earliest scent memory, Monsieur Guerlain?

  • Guerlain, Jean-Paul Guerlain, Perfume Quote

Search